Touch of Ukraine Bar. Credit: Touch of Ukraine

How Ukrainian Chefs Are Feeding America—and Preserving Their Culture

12 Minute read

20 Jul 2025

Journalist

As war reshapes Ukraine, chefs across the U.S.—many newly arrived, others rediscovering their roots—are turning traditional dishes into powerful stories of survival, identity, and home.

Let’s face it—this isn’t an easy time to be Ukrainian. The war with Russia, which began with the full-scale invasion in February 2022, continues with devastating consequences, and the broader political climate offers little relief. But amid the destruction and displacement, a growing number of Ukrainian restaurants are finding footholds across the United States.

Whether opened by newly arrived refugees or second-generation chefs reconnecting with their heritage, this culinary movement is bringing borsch, mlyntsi, and varenyky to more diners than ever before.

“We like to think of Ukrainian cuisine as soul food—it’s hearty, comforting, and versatile, offering something for everyone,” says Ruslan Falkov, the founding partner of Ruta, a Ukrainian restaurant in Washington, D.C. While that may resonate with those familiar with the cuisine, many American diners are still new to it. New Yorkers—home to the country’s largest Ukrainian-American population—likely know the iconic Veselka, and Chicagoans may point to beloved Polish-Ukrainian mom-and-pop spots. But in other corners of the country, this new wave of restaurants is introducing diners to a rich culinary tradition—and to a living, urgent piece of history.

Ruta opened in 2023 with an all-day menu showcasing standout Ukrainian specialties alongside lesser-known regional dishes. Chef Mykola Yudin, who recently relocated to the U.S. from Donetsk, has made it a priority to include both.

“While we embrace and honor the tradition behind classic dishes, we also enjoy presenting them with modern twists,” Falkov adds.

Golybtsy at Touch of Ukraine. Credit: Touch of Ukraine

Borscht at Touch of Ukraine. Credit: Touch of Ukraine

New Ukrainian Restaurants Are Reshaping America’s Culinary Landscape

Across the country, a wave of new Ukrainian restaurants has emerged, spanning both fast-casual and fine dining. Mom, Please and Mood in Los Angeles, Touch of Ukraine in Madison, Wisconsin, Leleka in San Francisco, and Corner of Ukraine in Nyack, New York all opened within the last two years. Chicago’s Anelya also joined the movement, recently earning an honorary mention in the Michelin Guide. Their arrival reflects both a surge of culinary talent entering the U.S. in the wake of war and a renewed passion among Ukrainian-Americans to share and preserve their food heritage.

“Our decision to open the restaurant took root long before Russia launched its brutal full-scale invasion,” says Falkov. “The war, however, became a powerful motivator for us, inspiring us to push forward with even more determination. It gave us a sense of urgency to share and preserve the beauty and soul of Ukrainian culture through our food.”

How War and Displacement Sparked a Culinary Movement

For Inessa Zolotarenko and her mother, Tatiana Emolova, co-founders of Touch of Ukraine, the war was a decisive turning point. Originally from Zaporizhzhia, Zolotarenko had been living in the U.S. for several years and is married to an American. But after the invasion, Emolova and her husband relocated with the support of the Uniting for Ukraine program—a humanitarian parole initiative that was officially paused by the Trump administration in January 2025. Along with them, several other refugees arrived in Wisconsin.

“We saw all these people coming in, not knowing any English, and wanted to give them jobs,” Zolotarenko says. Her husband, who had ties to a local real estate firm, helped secure a space for the restaurant and sponsored several employees’ work visas.

“My mom had worked in the food industry before, but we didn’t have restaurant experience—all the recipes are hers, and we just used our intuition,” she says. A year in, Touch of Ukraine is the only Ukrainian restaurant in the area and already has a loyal customer base—many of whom had never tried Ukrainian food before.

“People are interested in something new, and perhaps want to support—and when they come once, they always come back,” Zolotarenko says.

Chicken Kiev at Touch of Ukraine. Credit: Touch of Ukraine

Golybtsy at Touch of Ukraine. Credit: Touch of Ukraine

From Borsch to Varenyky: Introducing Diners to Ukrainian Classics

Many of these restaurant menus share a familiar selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes: varenyky—boiled dumplings stuffed with everything from potato purée to sour cherries; deruny—crispy potato pancakes; holubtsi—cabbage rolls filled with beef and served in tomato sauce; syrnyky—fluffy farmer’s cheese pancakes; mlyntsi—savory stuffed crêpes; forshmak—a herring and apple pâté typically served with dark rye bread; and vinehret—a beet and potato salad named for its vinegar-spiked dressing.

Then there are the dishes that had already made their way into the American dining lexicon before Ukraine’s tragic rise to global headlines: borsch, the vivid beet-and-cabbage soup that was recently recognized by UNESCO as part of Ukraine’s intangible cultural heritage; chicken Kyiv, the crisp, deep-fried chicken breast that spills herb butter with every cut; and medovik, the richly layered honey cake beloved across Eastern Europe.

The fact that most U.S. diners are only somewhat familiar with Ukrainian cuisine is, according to some chefs, a blessing—and an opportunity to get creative.

“We introduce Ukrainian cuisine through familiar elements while highlighting what makes it unique,” says Oleksii Kochetkov, the owner of Mom, Please in Los Angeles. His mother, Olena Kochetkova, serves as head chef. “Many people recognize dumplings, but they may not know about varenyky. We describe borscht as a rich beet soup with layers of depth, and syrnyky as fluffy cheese pancakes perfect for breakfast or dessert. By connecting our dishes to something recognizable, we make Ukrainian food feel both exciting and comforting to new diners.”

Kochetkov and his family moved to Los Angeles from Mariupol at the start of the war—a journey marked by profound personal loss, including the death of his father. To cope with her grief, Olena turned to cooking. What began as a small delivery service offering frozen homemade Ukrainian dishes soon blossomed into a full-fledged restaurant.

“Ukrainian food isn’t just about sustenance—it’s about bringing people together, celebrating culture, and savoring every bite,” Kochetkov says of his business.

While their stories and circumstances differ, many of these newly minted restaurateurs share a common thread: a deep sense of pride in watching curious customers embrace Ukrainian cuisine.

“I’m very appreciative and proud,” Zolotarenko says, adding that Touch of Ukraine initially offered more “Americanized” dishes, but removed them after realizing it wasn’t necessary.

For Falkov, the existence of Ruta reflects the enduring cultural significance of Ukrainian food—even amid shifting U.S. policies. “Ukrainian food, it’s ever evolving, embracing new techniques and influences while staying rooted in its authenticity,” he says. “But it's deeply tied to our history, our land, and our people.”

20 Jul 2025