At Dalida, one of San Francisco’s most sought-after restaurants, chef and co-owner Sayat Ozyilmaz takes things a step further. While the kitchen serves a close-to-classic tahdig saffron rice side topped with barberries, the showstopper—and social media star—is the California Tahdig: a petite, four-inch, perfectly crisped rice dome adorned with California trout roe, yellowtail, Santa Barbara urchin, Monterey seaweed, and a preserved citrus emulsion.
Ozyilmaz arrived at tahdig after experimenting with different rice dishes for Dalida’s elevated Mediterranean menu. “As the token Middle Easterner at a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, I was nicknamed the ‘rice whisperer’ because I was always called upon to fix the rice,” he says. When it came time to plan Dalida’s menu, Ozyilmaz took the matter seriously. “We tested several contenders,” he says, “and tahdig emerged as the winner. We love how it appears so simple while actually being rather complex, both in texture and flavor.”
To make tahdig, traditional Iranian cooks first boil the rice in saffron-laced water, then mix part of it with yogurt and layer it in an oiled, buttered cast-iron pan. The remaining rice is piled on top, with holes poked through to release steam and help the bottom brown. As it cooks, the rich layer caramelizes and crisps, and flipping the pot ensures the prized crunchy layer takes center stage.
“Tahdig captures everything I love about rice and distills it into a simple, beautiful dish,” Ozyilmaz says. “It’s fluffy, tart, rich, crispy, warm, and comforting, with a delicate and addictive flavor.” Has he noticed the dish trending? Certainly. “Persian cuisine is definitely having a moment, and tahdig is part of that trend,” he says.
Across the U.S., chefs couldn’t agree more: tahdig has been equally popular at new and modern Persian establishments such as the recently opened Sofreh Cafe in Brooklyn, as well as restaurants that draw on the region to infuse their menus with new flavors. You might not expect to find tahdig at a buzzing hotel restaurant in Palm Springs, yet there it is—on the menu at Lola Rose in the new Thompson Hotel.
“Tahdig has been on my mind ever since I was 13 years old, eating at my first Persian restaurant,” says chef Quentin Garcia. “The brittle rice at the base of the pan, which you had to order earlier in the day at the risk of it running out, was a thrill. I was addicted to its scarcity and overwhelming flavor.” Now Garcia gets to experiment with the dish that has captivated him since childhood, serving it in two versions: classic, or paired with seasonal braised vegetables and fruits. He’s glad tahdig is getting more recognition from both diners and chefs: “It’s a great dish and a technique you can have a lot of fun with!”
For restaurateurs like Reza Farahani, co-founder of Joon, a critically acclaimed new Persian restaurant in Vienna, Virginia, tahdig’s star turn is long overdue. “For many, Persian food was unfamiliar until now,” Farahani says, “so it feels fresh and exciting to diners eager to try new flavors and experiences.” At Joon, executive chef Najmieh Batmanglij uses the traditional method of incorporating yogurt into the rice and serves tahdig alongside mains ranging from chicken kabobs to fragrant ghormeh sabzi stew.
And yet, no matter the setting, tahdig remains true to its roots. “It’s comfort food to me,” Farahani says, pointing to a potential—and perhaps critical—reason for its rising popularity. “There’s a limited amount that forms at the bottom of the pot, so it’s always been a coveted treat—scarcity makes it even more special.” Scarcity, if you ask any social media expert, is the new luxury—and in tahdig’s case, it also happens to be dangerously delicious.
