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COTE Korean steakhouse steak omakase

The Rise of the Korean Steakhouse in America

Journalist

A bold new wave of high-end dining blends the communal spirit of Korean BBQ with the luxury of a classic chophouse.

Korean BBQ has been popular for decades, but now a new category has emerged—the Korean steakhouse. With splashy openings across the country, this new style of restaurant blends Korean BBQ with elements of an American steakhouse, where servers cook premium cuts of meat at the table using Korean-style marinades, ssam (쌈, a traditional Korean wrap using lettuce or perilla leaves to enclose grilled meat, rice, and condiments), and perhaps even a beef-focused omakase.

“Korean cuisine is deeply rooted in the concept of sharing,” says Korean chef and restaurateur Akira Back, who is behind ABSteak in Los Angeles and San Francisco. “In Korea, the word for ‘family’ (식구) literally means ‘people who share meals.’ Applying this philosophy to a Korean steakhouse, the experience revolves around sharing side dishes, stews, and premium cuts of beef with friends and family. This communal aspect is what sets Korean steakhouses apart.”

As some diners move away from traditional steakhouses and restaurateurs focus on more affordable and environmentally friendly menus, Korean steakhouses stand apart, capturing attention with a novel but familiar twist on the American steakhouse. The rise of Korean fine dining in America in recent years has only fueled the trend, with 10 Michelin-starred Korean restaurants in New York, including Atomix, which ranks as the highest-ranked U.S. restaurant on The World’s 50 Best list (#6 in the world this year).

The emergence of the Korean steakhouse can be traced back to COTE, which opened its original New York location in 2017. Seoul-born restaurateur Simon Kim’s pioneering concept quickly garnered a Michelin star for its attentive service, extensive wine list, and high-quality meats. The restaurant’s success has since led to expansions in Miami, Singapore, and soon Las Vegas.

Typically, a Korean BBQ experience is a flexible and interactive feast, exemplified by COTE’s popular butcher’s feast, which is priced per person and designed for groups. Diners can expect a selection of Midwestern USDA Prime and American hybrid wagyu from Nebraska and Georgia grilled by servers at their table, accompanied by an array of banchan—pickled seasonal vegetables, scallion salad, savory egg soufflé, and beef bone consommé—along with stews and rice. These aren’t your standard steakhouse sides of baked potatoes and creamed spinach. Instead, the experience encourages mixing and matching flavors in a journey of culinary discovery. For those seeking an even more premium option, COTE offers a horizontal A5 Japanese wagyu ribeye tasting, featuring cuts from Miyazaki, Sendai, and Kobe beef.

In Chicago, a city famous for steakhouses, Perilla opened in July 2024 to great acclaim, offering a communal steakhouse experience in the downtown Loop neighborhood with an approachable yet exciting atmosphere. Accents like caviar, truffle, and uni add luxe flourishes alongside fresh lettuces, herbs, and dipping sauces to refresh the palate and complement the rich meat. Perilla highlights a dedicated Iberico pork program, sourcing prized acorn-fed Spanish Iberico pork, known for its marbling and rich flavor, alongside American prime beef and Japanese wagyu.

Unlike a traditional cook-your-own-meat Korean BBQ experience, Perilla, like COTE, has servers who grill the meat to precise specifications at the table. “Our team is trained thoroughly so that each cut is cooked to the specification we believe to be the best temperature to enjoy that cut,” says chef Andrew Lim. “Each bite is cooked exactly to [the guest’s] liking and able to be enjoyed right away.” All servers go through several days of demonstrations, tastings, and mock service before serving guests.

Chef Sangtae Park takes a different approach, blending a Korean steakhouse with sushi omakase at Bonyeon, a 12-seat beef omakase that opened in December 2023 in Chicago. Park, who earned a Michelin star for Omakase Yume, spent most of his career as a sushi chef but grew up with fond memories of grilling meats at Korean BBQ restaurants with friends and family.

“With Bonyeon, we wanted to offer the same level of guidance [as Omakase Yume]—but with a focus on beef and Korean cuisine,” Park says. “Our approach is deeply rooted in Korean traditions, showcasing timeless techniques such as fermentation, ssam, and stewing, all while placing beef at the centerpiece of each dish.”

Signature bites include counter-grilled beef tenderloin with miso-bone marrow sauce, as well as marinated galbi presented ssam-style with Korean red leaf lettuce, endive, and ssamjang (쌈장, Korean spicy soybean paste). Park also serves gomtang, a beef soup made by simmering five different cuts of beef for three days, and highlights lesser-known cuts such as tendon and tongue.

“Because our diners are often well-versed in different beef cuts, with Chicago being a steakhouse city, our goal is to introduce them to the traditional Korean preparations that have evolved over centuries—bridging the gap between traditional and modern Korean dining,” Park says. That includes pyeonyuk (편육, a thinly sliced and pressed beef terrine reminiscent of French pâté) and yukjeon (육전, an egg-battered beef pancake traditionally served on holidays and special occasions).

Although these new steakhouses are all distinctly Korean, Hanwoo (한우), a prized breed of Korean cattle known for its rich marbling and deep beefy flavor, is noticeably absent from their menus. Due to high demand, limited supply, and South Korea’s focus on domestic consumption, Hanwoo beef is not exported to the U.S. Instead, Korean steakhouses highlight premium American, Australian, and Japanese beef but prepare it with Korean flavors and techniques.

For example, at ABSteak, a ssamjang 30-day dry-aged ribeye is a signature cut, where fermented Korean soybean and chili paste add deep umami complexity to the steak, and the dry-aging process intensifies the beef’s natural flavor.

“This is what sets us apart,” Back says. “We’re offering a balance of bold Korean flavors with the precision of dry-aged steak craftsmanship.”

Korean steakhouses are redefining the modern steakhouse experience in America, introducing an exciting intersection of Korean BBQ traditions and the classic American steakhouse format. By combining high-quality beef, interactive tableside grilling, and an array of bold, vibrant flavors, these restaurants are making their mark as one of the most compelling dining trends of the moment.

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