The term “wine bar” often brings to mind a familiar scene: pricey bottles, a predictable board of cheese and charcuterie, and a laid-back atmosphere that borders on sleepy. For years, that image defined the category. Now, a wave of new wine bars in New York City is turning the concept on its head and injecting fresh energy into the scene.
From more traditional spots where every detail is carefully considered, like Stars and Demo, to concepts that break the mold, like Lai Rai, Sunn’s, and Ha’s Snack Bar, these new additions to the New York wine scene are quickly becoming some of the most talked-about restaurants in the city, even if they only offer a few dishes to snack on. With thoughtful menu items, attention to design, and expert-built wine programs, this handful of wine bars has become some of the hottest seats in town.
Some venues have garnered buzz because they are unlike anything the city has seen before. Take Lai Rai, a Vietnamese wine bar in Chinatown. A brief menu of Vietnamese snacks is spelled out on a chalkboard, but the spot has gained popularity for its artisanal ice cream in flavors like fish sauce. At Lei, a Chinese wine bar that opened last summer in the same neighborhood, chilled celtuce with kombu jelly, shallots, and red vinegar is one of the dishes drawing attention.
Lei’s wine director Matt Turner says that since wine bars are often smaller venues, they work well for solo guests as well as groups, creating a something-for-everyone situation that’s good for business. If you want a convivial atmosphere to crack open a few bottles with friends, you can go to a wine bar. If you want to peruse a book alone while sampling a few glasses, they have you covered.
“The barriers to entry for a wine bar are also pretty low,” he says. “Most offer by-the-glass programs with a variety of styles and price points, so you can have as many or as few glasses as you like.”
