There are cheese pizzas and then there is Cheesus. At Lynx, chef Josh Skenes turns the idea of a plain cheese pie into something maximalist and deeply serious at the same time.
The newly opened Arts District spot, recently added to the MICHELIN Guide California new additions list, is already drawing attention for its cryptic “product bar and pizza” identity. It feels as enigmatic as Skenes himself, the former three-MICHELIN-star chef behind Saison.
Cheesus layers smoked scamorza from Il Casolare, Pecorino Romano, 30-month Vacche Rosse DOP parmesan, Amatrice Ma-Trù cheese, volcanic tomato, basil, and California olive oil into something molten, salty, smoky, and borderline excessive in the best possible way. The crust arrives inflated and blistered like an experimental art project, covered in more microplaned cheese, with the cheese collapsing into the center in near fondue-like ribbons.
In a city overloaded with neo-Neapolitan copycats, Skenes is making pizza that feels more like conceptual cooking disguised as comfort food. It’s wonderfully weird, cerebral, a little chaotic, and impossible not to talk about afterward.
Skenes is known for changing things up, so if Cheesus is no longer available when you visit, there are plenty of other pies worth ordering.