I didn’t want to like Bazaar Meat. The newest New York City restaurant from celebrity chef and restaurateur José Andrés defines itself as a “reimagined steakhouse,” complete with over-the-top cuts, elaborate presentations, and sky-high price tags to match. On paper, it’s everything that typically elicits an eye roll from someone who prefers a neighborhood vibe and a succinct menu.
But inside the Ritz-Carlton NoMad, the team is making real magic happen. The dining room buzzes with rolling carts and guests digging into a mix of simple, Spanish-inspired staples and intricate gastronomic dishes. Looking around the room, I expected to see food influencers with ring lights and a scene that felt anything but authentic. Instead, I was unexpectedly dazzled.
My equally apprehensive dining companion and I opted for José’s Ultimate Tasting, which takes guests through the restaurant’s greatest hits. Andrés’ restaurants Oyamel and Zaytinya were go-to spots when I lived in D.C., and I have long been a fan of the chef. It was reassuring to see touches that have become signatures of both molecular gastronomy and Andrés throughout the menu, including lightly crisp cones filled with crème fraîche and caviar and a dish the restaurant dubbed “liquid olives,” which injects the savory flavor of an olive into a tiny sphere resting in a spoon.
Oysters with smoke rolling off the top and a piece of foie gras delicately wrapped in cotton candy, easily the most showy dish on the menu, rounded out the appetizers. At first glance, some would call it gimmicky, myself included. But once I dug into the delicately balanced flavors and leaned into the playful, over-the-top presentations, it made more sense. The concept, after all, began in Las Vegas before opening in New York a few months ago.
On a menu with no shortage of interactive dishes, the tableside martini service feels almost classic. Once a cart is rolled over, the bartender makes a martini to your exact preferences. Guests choose gin or vodka fat-washed with olive oil for a silky texture, dial in the amount of vermouth, and select from classic garnishes and four different aromas sprayed over the top of the drink. Glasses are chilled with liquid nitrogen until the surface drops below freezing. Guests are then invited to dump the excess liquid onto the floor to watch it disappear midair as heads turn throughout the room.
