“Lunar New Year is all about celebrating with loved ones,” says Alex Chang, chef and co-owner of Kiko in New York City, of the 15-day holiday that marks the start of a new lunar calendar.
Celebrations include family reunions and the honoring of ancestors, and these gatherings always feature thoughtful cuisine with an emphasis on foods symbolizing good fortune and longevity. In China, noodles are often used to mark the occasion, as Chang explains they are “powerful symbols of prosperity and togetherness.”
His three-course Lunar New Year menu begins with the aptly named Longevity Noodles, tossed with spicy sesame sauce and peanut dukkah. For the entrée, Chang suggests serving a whole fish to “make for a fun family style meal that everyone can share,” a key part of Lunar New Year celebrations in China.
At Kiko, Chang says the whole fried fish is always a crowd favorite during this time of year, but they like to experiment with new dishes to keep things fresh and exciting. “One year, we did a play on a turnip cake that was made with celery root instead—it was a huge hit,” he says.
This year, Chang introduces something new by collaborating with chef and author Melissa King for two nights on a six-course menu welcoming the Year of the Horse. “She will combine her bold, modern Chinese-American perspective with our refined, globally informed approach to Asian cuisines inspired by my Chinese-Mexican heritage and childhood spent in Japan,” says Chang.
“It’s something fun and interactive,” says Chang, while still being relevant and celebratory. Whether you are making a reservation at Kiko or planning to prepare Chang’s prosperous three-course meal at home, he recommends a bottle of Julian Haart Riesling to carry you through the holiday’s bold flavors. “The crisp, dry, fruit-forward notes are a nice balance to the spices.”
