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Esmé Partridge

Esmé Partridge. Credit: Esmé

Tableside Dining Is Having a Moment

9 Minute read

Turning Dinner Into a Moment

The element of surprise is a key factor in creating a tableside dish that delivers rather than drags. At Esmé in Chicago, owner and chef Jenner Tomaska leans into that approach with a clay-baked presentation. For this preparation, the ingredients are baked inside clay sculpted to resemble the dish itself. “Most recently, [we had] a partridge stuffed with a foie gras sausage, wrapped in cabbage leaves, then fully encased in clay and hand-sculpted to resemble a bird,” he explains. “The dish is baked to order from raw inside the clay, wheeled out on a guéridon, and cracked open tableside with a hammer.”

After the clay is broken, the aromas of the bird fill the air as the meat is carved, sauced, and served. Tomaska calls it “a moment of discovery rather than just a plate of food.” In the kitchen, blind-baking inside clay without visual cues requires rigorous R&D to dial in timing, temperature, and the effects of the clay. For Tomaska, the reaction from guests is more than worth the effort. “The moment consistently creates surprise and excitement, and guests genuinely love the theater and sense of discovery,” he says.

As dining culture becomes increasingly shaped by video, the balance between creating excitement and maintaining substance is more important than ever. Grant sees it as a matter of intent and identity that starts with the chef. “Showmanship is a big part of why people even go out to dinner,” he says. “But when you start running an entire restaurant based on Instagram content, that’s when it derails from being anything authentic. Celebratory moments in the dining room should be captured and shared, but I want it to be just a piece of the story, not the entire identity of the restaurant.”

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