Credit: Neil John Burger

Sujan Sarkar Is Redefining Indian Fine Dining—And Building a Culinary Legacy Along the Way

13 Minute read

22 Jul 2025

Ari Bendersky

Writer

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At Indienne and across his growing restaurant group, Sarkar is expanding the possibilities of Indian cuisine—mentoring talent, embracing tradition, and pushing boundaries on his own terms.

In Chicago’s vibrant restaurant scene, chef Sujan Sarkar stands out not only for his Michelin-starred cuisine at Indienne, but for his unwavering mission to elevate Indian food to the highest echelons of fine dining.

Sarkar isn’t content to simply reframe familiar dishes. His ambition reaches further—transforming how Americans experience Indian cuisine through a growing restaurant group built on diverse concepts. At the same time, he mentors the next generation of culinary talent, often bringing them on as partners. His goal, always, is to spotlight the possibilities of the food of his homeland.

Pioneering a New Path for Indian Cuisine

“No one is taking Indian food to the level of fine dining in America like I am,” Sarkar states with quiet confidence.

This isn’t bravado—it’s a philosophy that drives every aspect of Indienne. His flagship restaurant has earned accolades from Esquire and Bon Appétit as one of the country’s best new restaurants, the 2024 Best New Restaurant award from Chicago’s Jean Banchet Awards, and a coveted Michelin star.

“I don’t say I got a Michelin star—we earned a Michelin star,” he says, proudly crediting his team. For Sarkar, though, fine dining goes far beyond the plate. “It’s not only about fine food,” he says. “It’s all the experience: the service, the detailing, how you’re going to present the dish, your cutlery, the wine list, the cocktails, everything—even the simple things.”

This holistic approach has placed Indienne among Chicago’s, and even the world’s, elite dining destinations. Sarkar, however, knows exactly where he stands. “I’m not Noma or Alinea,” he admits. “They are best at what they do. I want to be the best at what I do.”

That means constantly presenting fresh ideas that tie back to India. At Indienne, he regularly evolves the menu—adding new ingredients to familiar dishes, tweaking presentation, or introducing something entirely new. “My food is very progressive,” he says. “I won’t be doing the same today with my food one year from now.”

Yet even with constant innovation, Sarkar maintains a respect for familiarity. “When you do pani puri, the flavor is the same but we’ll change how it looks or how we’ve done it in the past. People want familiar tastes.”

Making Fine Dining Accessible

A native of Kolkata, Sarkar began his career in Mumbai before moving to London, where he spent 11 years honing his skills. He eventually became head chef at Automat at age 27, then opened the exclusive Almada next door.

From there, Sarkar moved to San Francisco, where he helped concept and open the upscale Indian restaurant Rooh. Multiple Rooh locations followed, including Chicago—where he ultimately left to open his own restaurant, Indienne, with the goal of proving that high-quality Indian cuisine can still be approachable.

Unlike many high-end establishments, Sarkar has deliberately kept Indienne’s pricing accessible—a decision inspired by Mexico City’s Pujol. “We share the same philosophy,” he says of Pujol chef-owner Enrique Olvera. “The prices aren’t crazy and they’re representing their culture and food and being creative without losing the integrity of the cuisine.”

That philosophy extends to Indienne’s multiple tasting menus, which include vegetarian and vegan options at slightly lower price points than the non-vegetarian menus. No matter the dish, Sarkar ensures it receives the same level of care. “I love cooking vegetables because it’s very challenging,” he says. “I have been to top restaurants and when you talk about veg food, they say they’ll do adjustments. Why? It has to be as good as anything else.”

Building a Restaurant Group with Purpose

While Indienne serves as Sarkar’s creative flagship, his ambitions reach far beyond a single concept. In 2023, he partnered with Sahil Sethi—who had worked with him at both Rooh and Indienne—to open Sifr, a Middle Eastern restaurant. He then joined forces with his brother, Pujan, to open Tiya in San Francisco, and with mentee Yash Kishinchand to launch the Indian chai café Swadesi in Chicago. In each case, Sarkar gives his partners space to showcase their own creativity.

His newest venture, Nadu—meaning “homeland”—highlights regional Indian food. For this, he partnered with Indian chef Sanchit Sahu to introduce a wider range of traditional Indian dishes to American diners, something Sarkar says he “needs to do.”

“We’re trying to do dishes from all over that have not been done before, exactly how it’s done in that particular region of India,” he says. “There will be no modernization.”

This deliberate contrast between concepts reflects Sarkar’s broader vision for presenting Indian cuisine in all its forms—and his interest in cross-cultural collaboration. He recently teamed up with Lucho Martinez of Mexico City’s Em and Norman Fenton of Chicago’s Cariño, learning to work with Mexican ingredients like masa.

Could a Mexican-inspired concept be in Sarkar’s future? “I am not convinced I am ready and I have to spend more time learning,” he says. But with Sarkar, new ideas seem to arise where you least expect.

Nurturing the Next Generation

Though constantly expanding his restaurant portfolio, Sarkar remains deeply committed to developing young talent—mentoring chefs like Sethi and Kishinchand and giving them space to lead. “I have no problem with experienced people, but young people bring fresh perspectives,” Sarkar says. “Everything should be new and that can only happen if you give opportunities to young people who are capable.”

That same spirit extends to Indienne’s wine director, Tia Polite, who created what Sarkar calls “one of the most dynamic small wine lists in the country.” For that list, she organized selections around art movements like Pop Art, Impressionism, and Baroque rather than traditional wine categories. The concept emerged from a simple prompt Sarkar offered: “Can you do something with art?” “I had no other influence,” he admits. “She came up with the idea.”

This hands-off approach allows Sarkar’s collaborators to develop their creative voices while operating within a structure that sets them up for success.

A Hospitality Philosophy Built on Saying ‘Yes.’

At the core of Sarkar’s success is a service philosophy rooted in one idea: give people what they want.

“There’s a book, The Answer is Yes [Now What Is the Question?],” Sarkar says. “Whatever people ask, we try to say yes. Whether allergies or dietary restrictions, we make it work.”

That ethos also shapes his leadership style. Rather than ruling with rigid discipline, Sarkar creates an environment where creativity can thrive. “The moment they’re under pressure you won’t get the best out of them,” he says of his employees, both in the kitchen and on the floor. “They should be free to make mistakes.”

Sarkar is content with Indienne’s standing as a Michelin one-star restaurant and sees no need to sacrifice what he and his team have built in pursuit of another accolade. “We aren’t going to drop down to 40 [covers] and go for two stars and do $250 per person,” he says.

Instead, he focuses on making each day’s service better than the last—balancing innovation with accessibility. By elevating Indian cuisine to fine dining status at Indienne and showcasing regional traditions at Nadu, Sarkar is creating a more complete picture of one of the world’s most diverse culinary traditions.

Through his cooking, mentorship, and hospitality philosophy, Sarkar isn’t just changing how Americans experience Indian food—he’s redefining what fine dining itself can be: progressive yet accessible, ambitious yet grounded, innovative yet authentic.

In doing so, he’s carving a legacy that extends far beyond the plates that leave his kitchen—while staying grounded in gratitude. “If I am full every night,” he says, “I am good.”

22 Jul 2025

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