At the height of cherry blossom season in Kyoto, when the city feels suspended between peak beauty and quiet impermanence, Kyle and Katina Connaughton have opened SoNoMa, an intimate 12-seat counter inside Capella Kyoto in the historic Miyagawa-cho district. Their first project outside the United States arrives not as a declaration of expansion, but as something quieter and more personal. For Kyle, who spent formative years cooking in Japan, the restaurant marks a return to the place that shaped his earliest understanding of seasonality, craft, and hospitality.
“This was something that really found us,” he says.
Set just steps from one of Kyoto’s traditional geisha districts, SoNoMa unfolds as a highly controlled, deeply considered experience. Guests sit at a counter where each course is composed in front of them, the room calibrated to feel both minimal and immersive. The scale is intentional and the experience is precise. Where SingleThread operates with dozens of chefs and a broad agricultural engine behind it, the Connaughtons have chosen focus here, creating something more immediate and more exposed.
That immediacy begins on the plate. The opening menu reads as a dialogue between Kyoto and Sonoma, anchored in hyper-seasonal ingredients sourced from the Kansai region alongside select products from Northern California. Early courses center on sansai, the wild mountain vegetables that signal the arrival of spring, followed by takenoko, bamboo shoots harvested daily from a nearby grove and paired with soft tofu, citrus, and a measured pour of SingleThread’s olive oil. A dish of Nanatani duck, a prized local breed, is grilled over charcoal and served with spring cabbage and kumquat, while dessert turns toward the foothills of Ohara, where honey, milk, and grain come together in a quiet reflection of the surrounding ecosystem.
The food is precise, but it is also deliberately rooted in place. Dishes are developed in Kyoto rather than transported from California, built around local producers and artisans. Ingredients appear and disappear quickly, and the window to capture them is narrow.