Inside the Kitchen: Seven Questions with Chef Junsoo Bae of SSAL

Cheeseburger. I didn’t grow up eating cheeseburgers, but at Gramercy Tavern I was eating burgers every day. It’s one of the most famous burgers in New York City for a reason. A steak-cut, medium-rare burger with running juice. It is a simple dish, but reveals a lot about a chef’s technique.

When I was in the military, my sister came for the weekend to visit me, and she bought a gimbap that she had just purchased in front of our military camp. I was talking to my sister and eating it, and that moment—that food—will always be a special memory. It was just a franchised rice roll company, but I think the circumstances made it taste even better.

It’s not just a place to eat, but a full experience. A lot of people join the restaurant for an occasion—anniversary, birthday, retirement—something to celebrate. From the moment you walk in, it needs to feel special. I want guests to taste some familiar dishes as well as try something new. As a Korean restaurant in San Francisco, there should be some unexpected flavors and an educational moment as well.

A lot of restaurants are existing to achieve something, but instead of chasing World’s 50 Best or the Michelin Guide, I want to make the restaurant reflect my life. Oftentimes, I see a lot of failure based on complicated financials behind the restaurant. I want to stay away from investors so that I can always run my business the way I believe is right. I want someone to come as a diner and feel my passion, my story, my flavor—with all the energy that goes in.

César in New York. Until now, I think Brooklyn Fare was my best meal. I went a long time ago in Brooklyn when he initially opened, and it was BYOB. His cooking is very honest, very ingredient-driven, and a lot of seafood—just like we do.

I’m a part of nature. I have to accept seasonal changes and product changes. I’m just a cook. Whatever Mother Nature gives to us, I want to help people enjoy it. That’s why we serve fruit just on ice at the end of dinner. We are highlighting what Mother Nature has given to us this week at the farmers’ market—to show something better than they can buy from Whole Foods.

Cheeseburger again. At least once every two weeks, I go to In-N-Out.