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Telly Justice

Telly Justice. Credit: Morgan Levy

Feeding People First: Telly Justice’s Journey to HAGS

10 Minute read

The path from dumpster diving to Justice’s own interpretation of fine dining was not linear. As she began eating at more ambitious restaurants, she became increasingly motivated to work in them. She went on to cook in Atlanta and New York, meeting her eventual business and life partner, Camille Lindsley, while the two worked together at Kimball House in Decatur in 2015, bonding over a shared love of industrial metal. Even then, Justice felt something was missing.

“I was pretty consciously aware that I was dividing myself further and further away from this initial spark that drew me to food and got me excited about it, building spaces of generosity, care, and humility,” says Justice. “Not that I didn’t enjoy the food that I was cooking, but the spaces felt hollow in a way, and I was hoping they would be more rich and soulful.”

Justice returned to the South to refocus on Southern hospitality and deepen her connection to food waste and sustainability movements. The most formative experiences during this period were her time at Eugene in Atlanta with Chef Linton Hopkins and leading the kitchen at Hugh Acheson’s Five & Ten.

“Linton said one of the most insightful things about Telly I’ve ever heard someone say,” says Lindsley. “He said, ‘You’re a poet who needs to be protected.’”

By 2019, Justice realized she would not be able to build her own voice while working in the shadows of the South’s most prominent chefs. She and Lindsley, a couple by then, decided to move to New York with the goal of eventually opening a project of their own. In the meantime, Justice worked at Contra and Wildair, while Lindsley joined Aldo Sohm Wine Bar.

When the pandemic hit, Justice and Lindsley created HAGS, initially as a pop-up driven more by a desire to help people than by long-term plans. Payment was often on a sliding scale, and sometimes the food was free. Building community during the pandemic ultimately cemented New York as their home.

“I think that was a moment where we realized that we see ourselves as part of New York City, wanting to contribute to it and be in a deeper relationship with the people around us through what we do, through our craft,” says Justice. “It was suddenly less about ambition and proving ourselves, and more about feeding people really cool, yummy food and having fun with them. That was the seed of what HAGS became.”

The brick-and-mortar HAGS opened in the summer of 2022 as a welcoming, playful, queer, and communal space that also happens to offer two of the most creative and flavorful tasting menus in the East Village, one omnivore and one vegan, along with a pay-what-you-can brunch on Sundays. The decision to open a permanent restaurant did not come easily.

“I remember having a conversation before we started the pop-up, where I was like, I’m really scared to synthesize the identity of the pop-up with myself as a trans woman, and to say, this is a queer project, I am a queer person, and I am a trans woman. I felt like I was ruining my career and that this was going to be the end, but I had to do it,” says Justice. “I can still feel that fear, but in hindsight it’s incredible how wrong I was. It was truly the exact opposite. When you let go of the thing that is really, really deeply held in you, and you let it out, you really shine.”

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