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Marvin's Pepperoni Pizza Negroni

Marvin's Pepperoni Pizza Negroni

Cocktails for Carnivores

8 Minute read

Where Flavor Gets Weird

Abigail Gullo at Loa, a cocktail bar in the International House Hotel in New Orleans, built her Muffuletta Martini with a similar approach. “I love muffulettas and I love martinis,” she said. “I was like, ‘that just sounds perfect.’” Gullo is also nominated for a 2026 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service in the Southeast.

New Orleans grocery stores sell prepackaged muffuletta kits with the city’s signature combination of deli meats and cheeses, usually including ham, mortadella, salami, provolone, and mozzarella, along with giardiniera, an olive relish with pickled cauliflower, celery, carrots, capers, and garlic.

To make the drink, Gullo bought a muffuletta kit, then julienned all of it to fat-wash Navy Strength gin. “I used a nice fragrant, savory kind of vermouth to go with it,” she said, “and we garnish with the olive salad giardiniera.” She finishes it with a drop of Sicilian olive oil and a touch of sesame oil to evoke the seeded bun of the sandwich.

It might sound strange, but Loa has long leaned into “experimental, weird drinks based on New Orleans traditions and herbology and stuff like that,” Gullo said. If you’re at her bar, order a Sazerac and listen as she explains the history of New Orleans through the spirits in the cocktail.

Gullo sees meat-washing as “nothing new” in the cocktail world. “This has been part of my cocktail DNA for 20 years,” she said. What has changed, she notes, is drinking behavior and a growing appetite for something different, especially amid ongoing conversations about alcohol falling out of favor. “I don’t feel like people are drinking less,” she said. “I think they’re drinking better.”

“That being said, I think those of us in the craft feel like we’re being attacked and we’re getting defensive,” about the idea that people aren’t drinking anymore, she added. “Sometimes we double down and say, ‘oh yeah? Well, then I’m going to make something even weirder. If the only people who are drinking are the people who are risk takers and trendsetters, then I’m going to lean into the risky trends.’”

Gullo also attributes these meatier cocktails to a growing synergy between food and cocktail programs. “What’s different from 20 years ago is that there used to be restaurants and there used to be cocktail bars, but now every restaurant is supposed to have a great cocktail program, and every cocktail bar is supposed to have great food,” she said. “What we’re seeing is the combination of the culinary and the beverage craft together.”

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