Trevor Moran is the chef of Locust in Nashville, where his approach to cooking emphasizes instinct, seasonality, and a close connection to his team and guests. In his own words, Moran talks about how the city has shaped his restaurant, his cooking, and the community that keeps him there.
I had been living in Copenhagen for a few years, and I got an offer to work at The Catbird Seat with Chef Erik Anderson. I had met Erik while in Denmark, and we fell in love after a few late nights of drinking fisk. Nashville has been very kind to me. The people I have met and know here are why I stay. Community is everything.
The guests’ experience and feedback are important to us. We have a lot of repeat diners that we adore, and we listen to what resonates with them. Almost nobody that works at Locust is from Nashville originally, but I suppose that's part of the Nashville story in a way, too. People come here from all over to play music, to study, to cook, whatever it may be. It can be a transient place, but that brings excitement also.
I had been living in Copenhagen for a few years, and I got an offer to work at The Catbird Seat with Chef Erik Anderson. I had met Erik while in Denmark, and we fell in love after a few late nights of drinking fisk. Nashville has been very kind to me. The people I have met and know here are why I stay. Community is everything.
The guests’ experience and feedback are important to us. We have a lot of repeat diners that we adore, and we listen to what resonates with them. Almost nobody that works at Locust is from Nashville originally, but I suppose that's part of the Nashville story in a way, too. People come here from all over to play music, to study, to cook, whatever it may be. It can be a transient place, but that brings excitement also.
I forgive myself more. I understand my abilities better. I lean into my own experiences more, dishes, sauces, techniques I cooked in my first years of my career, food I ate with my parents and friends, all the things before social media mean more to me than anything else. I try and enjoy my time with cooking, food, and people to the fullest.
I wouldn’t say I’m PROUD of any dishes. You’d be a real arse if you were proud of your dishes, I think. I’m pretty confident in a few things on the menu, though. I’d bet when you eat the tea ice, you’ll think it’s absolutely awesome.
There are almost no recipes at Locust, it's cooking by feel and taste and the chat between cooks. It's food I like to cook, and an atmosphere I find really fun and welcoming. Those're the only rules. And work nice and clean if you can. You can.
Nashville has some killer places, run by killer people who create warm spaces. Places you want to be. These people are veterans on the scene here, and I hope we never lose them.
Taqueria y Pupuseria Andrea, Peninsula, Mas Tacos Por Favor, Hugh-Baby’s, Pastaria, Chuy’s, City House, Rolf and Daughters, Bolton’s Spicy Chicken & Fish, and SS Gai.
The Chef
Trevor Moran is the chef and co-owner of Locust in Nashville, where his cooking draws on Irish roots, seasonal ingredients, and experience in leading international kitchens.
