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Tucci in Lombardy

Stanley exposes the pioneering spirit of Italyìs industrial heartland. Where the cuisine and ingredients are defiantly forward thinking. Credit: National Geographic/Matt Holyoak

Tucci in Lombardy: Every Dish From Episode 2 of Tucci in Italy

10 Minute read

In a region known for its industry, Tucci uncovers a new kind of artistry—from vertical farms to centuries-old cheese caves and kitchens that honor the past.

High above Milan, Stanley Tucci stands atop one of the city’s vertical forest towers—Bosco Verticale—as he opens Episode 2 of Tucci in Italy. The lush skyline view sets the tone for the region ahead: a place where tradition and innovation grow side by side, from politics to the plate.

Vertical farms

Unicredit’s striking glass-clad skyscraper and Bosco Verticale’s two residential towers. Credit: National Geographic

Planet Farms and Fine Dining at Da Vittorio

Though Lombardy is known more for industry than agriculture, Tucci zeroes in on culinary innovation at Da Vittorio, a family-run, three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Bergamo. “One of the best restaurants in Italy—probably one of the best restaurants in the world,” Tucci says, introducing a tour of its groundbreaking in-house lab: Planet Farms. Founded by Luca Travaglini, the vertical farm is the first of its kind designed specifically for fine dining.

Travaglini grows up to 10 pounds of greens daily—pesticide-free and with minimal water. “They’re the only leaves that don’t need to be washed to be eaten,” he tells Tucci, noting the purity and intensified flavor. The result is the Planet Salad, which Tucci begins his meal with: a vibrant mix of 35 herbs and vegetables—including six varieties of basil—finished with red wine, cherry vinegar, and a balsamic vinaigrette.

Tucci continues his meal with an amberjack crudo taco, stuffed with Planet Farms herbs like shiso, red basil, and mint. Next comes a bright, garlic-free pesto—made from pulverized greens—that’s served in a nontraditional pairing with risotto, violet prawns, and salmon roe. “It’s beyond food,” Tucci says, visibly moved.

Da Vittorio's takos

Da Vittorio’s takos with amberjack, flowers, leaves, and a touch of fresh herbs. Credit: National Geographic

Autogrill and the Culture of Roadside Food

To contrast the haute cuisine of Da Vittorio, Tucci hits the autostrada, stopping at a 1958 Autogrill near Linate—Italy’s version of the roadside diner, reimagined in 1947 by Mario Pavesi. “You can tell a lot about a country by its service station,” says Thea Lenarduzzi, a local journalist who joins Tucci for lunch.

Over plates of spaghetti al pomodoro for her and risotto alla Milanese for him, the two discuss Italian culture, politics, and the surprisingly elevated nature of Autogrill fare. “It’s al dente—look at the amount of saffron in there,” Tucci marvels. At the brand’s test kitchen, he samples a vegan ragù that’s been in development for three years. “It smells like a ragù,” he says. “I wouldn’t know this was vegan—it tastes like minced veal.”

Autogrill Villoresi Ovest

The historic Autogrill Villoresi Ovest, an icon of Italian design. Credit: National Geographic

Cook a Classic Risotto alla Milanese at Home

Inspired by the bright yellow risotto Tucci eats at the Autogrill, this version pairs saffron rice with another Lombardy icon: ossobuco. It's a bold, comforting dish that captures the heart of Milanese tradition.

Calvisius Caviar and Il Gambero in Calvisano

In Calvisano, Tucci visits Calvisius Caviar, one of the world’s leading exporters of sturgeon roe—responsible for nearly a third of global consumption. The sustainable aquaculture farm breeds seven species of sturgeon, each selected for a specific variety of caviar. Tucci observes the extraction and cleaning process before heading to Il Gambero, the town’s oldest fine dining restaurant, where he begins with a personal tin of caviar served with a mother-of-pearl spoon.

“Caviar is not a traditional Lombardy ingredient,” Tucci admits, “but locals have embraced it in a dish that’s as simple as it is luxurious”: a generous mound of caviar over spaghetti and shrimp. “This is so incredibly decadent... it’s like a dream.”

Spaghetti cooked in beet juice with vodka, yuzu, and osetra caviar.

Michael Tusk's spaghetti cooked in beet juice

Want to Cook Pasta With Caviar? Start Here

While Tucci’s decadent spaghetti with shrimp and caviar at Il Gambero isn’t on the menu at home, this vibrant vodka-spiked version—topped with yuzu caviar—brings a little of that luxury to your own kitchen.

Grana Padano and Punjabi Farmers

For a more traditional Lombard ingredient, Tucci travels to the Po Valley, home of Grana Padano—the world’s most widely consumed cheese. Milder, sweeter, and less expensive than Parmigiano Reggiano, its production was once in decline. But a new generation of Punjabi farmers has helped revive the craft.

“The influx of Punjabi farmers to Lombardy helped save what is now a $2 billion industry,” Tucci explains. “An openness to an evolving workforce helped save this industry.”

Gurpreeet Singh

Gurpreeet Singh fitting milking attire onto one of his cows at his dairy farm near Cremona. Credit: National Geographic

A Sunday Feast and the Spirit of Trippa

Back in Milan, Tucci joins a local family for a traditional Sunday lunch—gnocchi with ragù served alongside animated political conversation. His final stop is Trippa, a restaurant he describes as “one place that’s standing out by staying backwards.”

That philosophy comes through in his first bite of vitello tonnato, an age-old dish that Chef Diego Rossi reimagines with whipped mayonnaise, Sicilian anchovies, capers, and a drizzle of olive oil. From there, Tucci samples the restaurant’s namesake: fried tripe seasoned with rosemary, salt, and black pepper. He also tastes snails with green pea cream, wild garlic, cheese fondue, and poppy flower leaves; rabbit offal with cream; and finally, what Rossi calls “pure gold”—tagliatelle with butter and a very generous amount of Parmesan.

“Lombards respect their traditions but never shy away from the new,” Tucci reflects as the episode closes.

Make Vitello Tonnato Like They Do at Trippa

Chef Diego Rossi’s take on the classic veal-and-tuna dish is rich, elegant, and full of character—just like the Milanese institution that serves it. Try the full recipe below.

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