Blushing pink and briny, tarama is a staple of Parisian bistros with roots in Greece, where it’s known as taramasalata. At Maison Bar à Vins, executive chef Matt Conroy and chef de cuisine Jason Chavenson rework it into something more playful, folding smoked roe with whipped cream and dill, then piping it into choux buns dusted with powdered seaweed. “It gives off a bagel with smoked salmon feel,” says Conroy.
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