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Juan Manuel Barrientos 3

At elcielo Washington, Dinner Is Theater, and Colombia Is Center Stage

8 Minute read

The performance continues with the Tree of Life, a riff on yuca bread with a mochi-like texture. Baked in a circular shape to mimic a leafy canopy, it’s topped with well-browned, crisp cheese that crackles when bitten. The playful bread arrives balanced on a small copper tree crafted by an Indigenous Colombian artisan.

For all the whimsy, Barrientos’s career hasn’t been without strain. He speaks openly about the stress of early success and the healthier routines that now sustain his vision. That balance—between ambition and grounding—threads through elcielo’s theatrics.

After dessert comes the Coffee Field, an unforgettable service wreathed in dry-ice “mist” that swirls across the table. The course was inspired by Barrientos’s childhood weekends on his family’s farm in the Colombian countryside. “I would wake up early with the guys who worked there,” he recalls. “We’d take the donkeys and horses up the mountain to harvest coffee. Around 7 a.m., we were above the clouds, but then the heat lifted them, and suddenly we were in a fog. There was a moment when I couldn’t even see the farm.”

The meal ends with another handwashing, this time with rose petals glistening in scented lotion. “You eat a lot with your hands, so we wanted to finish with them smelling good,” Barrientos says.

It’s a finale that lingers in the senses—and, for Barrientos, it’s another way of putting Colombia on the global stage.

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