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Chef Carlos Delgago

Chef Carlos Delgago. Credit: Rey Lopez

From Callao to Causa: Carlos Delgado’s Peruvian Journey

7 Minute read

Ocopa earned strong reviews, but one guest in particular altered Delgado’s trajectory. José Andrés came in for a meal, loved it, and handed Delgado his phone number. A few years later, Delgado called. Andrés placed him at the helm of China Chilcano, his celebration of Peru’s multicultural culinary heritage, encompassing Indigenous Criollo traditions alongside Chinese Chifa and Japanese Nikkei influences. Delgado spent six years there, deepening not just his cooking but his understanding of scale and leadership. “I got to travel to all the restaurants and be involved in a lot of the operations,” he says. “I got exposed to the way he and his team think, which is not the way most people think. It made me a better restauranteur and inspired me to dream a little bit bigger.”

One of those dreams was a Peruvian answer to minibar, Andrés’s boundary-pushing tasting menu. “I’d been holding onto this idea for a long time,” Delgado says. “I just didn’t have a space to execute it.”

That space arrived in 2022, when Delgado reunited with Hartley and partnered with Chad Spangler to open Causa. The restaurant’s tasting menu begins with a series of small bites before moving into seafood, much of it flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market. Delgado oversees a dry-aging program for select fish, an uncommon approach in seafood cookery. “It concentrates the flavor and the texture,” he explains. “It’ll taste even better than when it was fresh and the fish practically melts in your mouth.” À la carte options may include cebiche, sashimi, or thinly sliced tiradito dressed with ají amarillo leche de tigre, followed by more terrestrial courses built around Peru’s countless varieties of potatoes or asado-style Wagyu beef. Dessert sometimes features mocambo, an Amazonian fruit grown by a collective of Indigenous women, presented in one iteration in the shape of a Michelin star and finished with caviar.

Above Causa, Amazonia extends the story into a rooftop bar dedicated to Peruvian pisco culture and casual fare. Together, the spaces reflect Delgado’s evolution as both chef and storyteller.

Accolades followed quickly: a Michelin star, a RAMMY Award for New Restaurant of the Year, the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic, and a RAMMY for Chef of the Year. Yet Delgado remains anchored by the same source that first set him on this path. “My mother came to the States and risked her life to give me a better opportunity,” he says, now a father of two. “Otherwise, I’d still be in Peru, probably still trying to figure out life. So I’m trying to do justice to her for all of that.”

From Chelita’s kitchen to Blagden Alley, that sense of responsibility continues to shape both the food and the ambition behind it.

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