After exploring the rich myriad of Sicilian street food, it's time to turn your attention to another of Italy's symbolic regional street foods, the mouthwatering treats hailing from Southern Italy in Naples and Campania (the region around Naples).
Between fried pizzas, pizzas and pizza a portafoglio, street food in the vibrant coastal city of Naples and surrounding area is plentiful and more often than not, carbohydrate based.
Take your appetite and an open mind and discover the home of Italian street food in Naples and Campania below, along with some of the best addresses to enjoy the finest examples in Naples and beyond.
Naples street food
1. Cuoppo napoletano
The cuoppo is the iconic cone-shaped card or paper filled with a variety of tasty morsels, provided they are fried, of course. Some vendors offer cones filled with fish and others with mozzarella, orange and potato croquettes. The important thing is that the fried food is dry enough that you can eat it in the street without getting into a greasy mess, cone in hand.
Where can you find a good cuoppo in Campania? Among the best is Il Cuoppo Friggitori Napoletani in Via San Biagio Dei Librai, Naples, where fried fish is a speciality.
2. Pizza a Portafoglio
Pizza is turned into a booklet to enjoy as street food or some say 'wallet'. A normal pizza is folded two to four times until it becomes small enough to eat easily, even on the street. Supposedly invented as far back as 1738, the long-standing pizzerie where it’s on the menu include Di Matteo in Via dei Tribunali 94, a pizzeria that first opened in the 1930s and always boasts a queue around the block.
Literally meaning 'the foot and the muzzle', '’o pere e ‘o musso' is an example of 'poor Naples street food' made from pork offal. You’ll find it almost anywhere in Campania, but if you’re looking for a traditional spot, try Antica Tripperia dal 1945 O Russ, at Pier delle Vigne 24 in Naples.
4. Fried pizza
It is almost everywhere, complete (with ricotta, tomato, mozzarella and chips) or even in 'lighter' variants. A truly historic place to enjoy it is at La Figlia del Presidente, where a fried pizza was also served to Bill Clinton on a visit to Naples in the 1990s. If you want gourmet instead go to Franco Pepe, Pepe in Grani in Caiazzo.
(La Figlia del Presidente, Via del Grande Archivio, 23/24 Naples; Pepe In Grani, Vico San Giovanni Battista, 3, Caiazzo - Caserta)
5. Montanara: Naples street food small pizza
At first glance this may look like a smaller version of a fried pizza, in fact its other name is fried pizza. However, Montanare are usually softer and seasoned with tomato sauce, parmesan cheese and sometimes mozzarella.
Where can you eat montanare? As always the addresses are plentiful, but a good place to start is La Cantina del Gallo Antica Pizzeria e Trattoria, via A.Telesino, 21, Naples
6. Zeppulelle or pasta cresciuta
These small but tasty fried morsels can have fish inside (often anchovies or fish) or vegetables such as zucchini flowers. They are good on their own or put in the mix together with other Naples fried street food.
Pasta frittata is another famous street food in Campania, but it's not for those watching their waistline. And the thing that you might be surprised to know is that the pasta frittata is generally eaten as an appetiser, before sinking your teeth into a soft pizza.
Even here you’ll be spoiled for choice, but if you want the very best, try one made by the Salvo Brothers using Gragnano pasta, potatoes and smoked buffalo mozzarella plus Parmigiano Reggiano.
(Pizzeria Salvo, Largo Arso 10-16, San Giorgio a Cremano, Naples)
Panuozzo are a delicious mash up between a sandwich and a pizza. The typical street food from various provinces of Campania is made with baked bread made from pizza cooked in a wood-burning oven before being cooked for a second time with the dressing. It is stuffed with mozzarella, tomatoes, vegetables.
Short crust or puff pastry? Whatever your preference, sfogliatella remain one of the sweetest street foods in Campania. Filled with ricotta and enriched with semolina and candied fruit. The good news is sfogliatella can be eaten at any time: breakfast, coffee after lunch and for a snack.
Where to eat sfogliatella in Naples? The addresses are plentiful, but if you want to enjoy them from morning till night, go to Attanasio at Vico Ferrovia.
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