Cranking the concept of tapas and food carts to the max, State Bird Provisions burst onto the San Francisco fine dining scene in 2012 and almost instantly became a classic. “We’ve always said that it’s slow food, served fast,” says Brioza of the format—carts and trays packed with of-the-moment dishes zigzagging between diners, ready to be snagged and marked on tableside scorecards, in addition to an à la carte menu.
The menu, offered seven days a week, features a constantly evolving lineup of inventive small plates: two-bite pancakes and toasts topped with everything from beef tongue to premium caviar; red trout with toasted hazelnuts and mandarin-garum vinaigrette; cheese fondue with pepper agrodolce and bacon; and desserts that defy category, like black sesame bao with charred rhubarb compote.
“State Bird is all about efficiency and effectiveness of service—it’s a way to showcase our food and serve a lot of dishes,” Brioza says. “We like to joke that we turn dining into a full-contact sport.” The restaurant’s ethos also centers on zero-waste cooking and celebrating California’s finest ingredients, from quail and anchovies to wild mushrooms and hard-to-find vegetables, all backed by a deep pantry of Asian staples. Techniques like preservation, smoking, and fermentation are front and center.
Reflecting on the restaurant’s place in the San Francisco dining scene, Brioza notes that both State Bird Provisions and The Progress have become “a bit of a San Francisco institution—not a flash in the pan, but incredible places for community to gather. Restaurants that had a lot to teach their staff, that support the greater Bay Area community.”
With that visibility comes a sense of responsibility and a focus on mentorship, while still allowing team members creative freedom. “We’ve established a certain baseline of philosophy, rapport, and flavor combinations,” Brioza says. “And now young chefs add to it. It’s like a family tree of dishes.”
