Sorry, you need to enable JavaScript to visit this website.
Artichoke Flower with Spring Things at Jacaranda

Artichoke Flower with Spring Things at Jacaranda. Credit: Wonho Frank Lee

At Jacaranda, Daniel Patterson Rebuilds Fine Dining on His Own Terms

12 Minute read

After stepping away from fine dining, Daniel Patterson and Sarah Lewitinn transformed intimate home dinners into one of LA’s most personal new tasting-menu experiences.

Three months after hosting the last Jaca Social Club dinner out of their Hancock Park house, and two months before opening the doors to their Hollywood tasting-menu restaurant, Jacaranda, husband and wife Daniel Patterson and Sarah Lewitinn mingled among the lauded guests of LA’s culinary scene at the rotating Funhouse pop-up in Laurel Canyon. As diners slurped down sustainable oysters delicately prepared by Herb & Sea’s Aidan Owens, industry gossip flowed up and down the communal table. Seated next to each other by chance, Sarah and I caught up over our shared history as DJs during New York’s Indie Sleaze era, the music she was selecting for their new restaurant, and the hosting style she wanted to bring to fine dining. As guests migrated to the kitchen for berry-topped Basque cheesecake, I had a chance to congratulate Patterson on opening his first official fine dining restaurant since the closing of his MICHELIN-starred Coi in 2022.

“Thank you,” he responded. “I’m pretty nervous.”

I followed up: “Why would you be nervous? You’ve done it before.”

“That’s why,” he replied. “I know what it takes.”

Daniel Patterson and Sarah Lewitinn

Daniel Patterson and Sarah Lewitinn. Credit: Tyler Curtis

“I Was There”

For anyone steeped in San Francisco’s fine dining scene in the early Aughts, Daniel Patterson’s acumen as a chef and restaurateur was well known. After establishing himself with Elizabeth Daniel, which won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in 2001, he opened the much-celebrated Coi in 2006, where his California cuisine and philosophy, rooted in the joy of cooking for others, earned two MICHELIN stars. For those equally obsessed with New York’s Lower East Side music scene during that same era, Sarah Lewitinn’s reputation carried similar weight. DJing and hosting parties under the moniker Ultragrrrl, she helped usher in a generation of bands like My Chemical Romance, became an editor at SPIN, and left an imprint on that era that still resonates today.

For anyone steeped in San Francisco’s fine dining scene in the early Aughts, Daniel Patterson’s acumen as a chef and restaurateur was well known. After establishing himself with Elizabeth Daniel, which won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in 2001, he opened the much-celebrated Coi in 2006, where his California cuisine and philosophy, rooted in the joy of cooking for others, earned two MICHELIN stars. For those equally obsessed with New York’s Lower East Side music scene during that same era, Sarah Lewitinn’s reputation carried similar weight. DJing and hosting parties under the moniker Ultragrrrl, she helped usher in a generation of bands like My Chemical Romance, became an editor at SPIN, and left an imprint on that era that still resonates today.

“Romantic Rights”

Both migrated to Los Angeles in 2020. Patterson had stepped away from fine dining, opening LocoL in Watts with Roy Choi, followed by Alta Adams in West Adams with Keith Corbin. Alta Adams became his only surviving restaurant during COVID and ultimately his impetus for moving. Lewitinn, who had been bi-coastal since 2017, eventually settled on the West Coast in search of love. “I told my mom, if you want me to get married, LA is where it’s going to happen,” she reflected. The two connected on Hinge in 2021 during COVID, and their connection was instantaneous. The day after their first date, Lewitinn called her mom and said, “I met the guy I’m going to marry.”

A quick courtship led to a wedding in Copenhagen in 2022, where they were married by their friend and colleague René Redzepi. Then came the question of what to do next. For Patterson, that meant returning to the style of cooking that established him as one of the leading voices in America’s culinary landscape. “I felt I could always get back to fine dining, I’m just going to take a little break,” Patterson explained. “And what I learned is that it's not so easy. It’s taken me years, but getting back to it definitely coincided with meeting Sarah and falling in love.”

Dinners at Daniel Patterson and Sarah Lewitinn's House

Dinners at Daniel Patterson and Sarah Lewitinn's House

“There is a Light That Never Goes Out”

As guests began to make their way out, Lewitinn gathered the remaining diners along the banquettes, creating a space for those who clearly didn’t want to leave. Despite having two more Friends and Family previews in the following days, she seemed in no rush to end the magic that she, Patterson, and the team were creating nightly. With service officially over, Patterson emerged from the kitchen to thank everyone for making the effort to spend time with them. I asked him whether, with so much thought and effort spent getting back to the beginning, stars, awards, or anything of that ilk was on his mind.

“I was a two-MICHELIN-starred chef for ten years. I know the level,” he responded thoughtfully. “It’s not something I think about. I think about us doing our job well. The rest will take care of itself.”

He then quietly said his goodnights before heading back to the kitchen to start prep for tomorrow’s dinner, surrendering himself once again to his simple, all-consuming joy of cooking for others.

Spread the flavor - share this story.

Join the community
Badge
Join us for unlimited access to the very best of Fine Dining Lovers
Unlock all our articles
Badge
Continue reading and access all our exclusive stories by registering now.

Already a member? LOG IN