Every now and then you come across a cookbook that fundamentally changes the way you approach an element of cooking. Not a coffee table cookbook (though those are lovely), but a sort of bible that helps you understand a cuisine or technique well enough to fully immerse yourself in it and go full-on geek. The sort that gets dog-eared and lovingly stained as you cook alongside it. This summer, one of those books arrives just in time for its namesake season: Grill Time! Why You Should Be Grilling for Better, Healthier, Easier, and More Delicious Meals: A Cookbook by Noah Galuten.
Galuten, the James Beard Award-winning co-author of Bludso's BBQ Cookbook and The Don't Panic Pantry, has spent years learning from some of the country's most respected cooks. Ask him about grilling and he'll happily talk about Kevin Bludso's smoking techniques, Ari Kolender's mayonnaise trick for fish, or the finer points of charcoal. Spend a little more time with him, however, and it becomes clear that Grill Time! isn't simply a masterclass in cooking over fire. It's really a book about the deeper questions of feeding people.
These days, much of Galuten's cooking life revolves around raising two young children. The questions driving his work are less about restaurant kitchens than weeknight dinners, nutrition, sustainability, and figuring out how to get good food on the table without losing your mind in the process.
"Becoming a parent, for me anyway, takes all the things that I already cared about, but makes them more important because it's how it relates to somebody else who matters more to you than yourself," he says.
That perspective shapes the entire book. Grill Time! is divided between what Galuten calls "Convenience Grilling" and "Weekend Project Grilling." One is about getting dinner on the table quickly. The other is about spending an afternoon tending charcoal and wood, dedicating yourself to a project you can master over time.
"The other side of it is the dad side, which is the weeknight grill," he says. "When you live in Los Angeles and you have a grill, especially if you have one that's hooked up to a gas line, I can turn it on, throw chicken breasts and asparagus on the grill, and have dinner on the table in 10 minutes."
The appeal isn't just about speed. It's also about the versatility the grill provides, accommodating different needs and styles of cooking.
"The ability to cook for different dietary restrictions too, to be able to have shrimp and steak and chicken and vegetables all cooking at the same time," he says. "If you had to do those with multiple pans on a stove, you would just order a pizza or blow your brains out."