When I think about the holidays, I think about the classical music I woke up to as a kid on Thanksgiving morning, and I picture my parents moving around the kitchen in their familiar rhythm, trussing the spice-brined turkey with a glass of wine in each hand.
Wine has always been woven into the fabric of my family. For as long as I can remember, my dad would offer me tiny sips of whatever he was drinking, “to develop a palate,” as he put it. I suppose it worked, because I inherited his love of wine, and at some point the holiday wine-selection duties were passed down to me.
Here is how I like to pair wines with Thanksgiving dinner.
How to Choose Bottles
When choosing bottles, it is important to remember that wine is subjective. Everyone has a different palate and personal preferences.
So I’ll start by telling you what I gravitate toward: brioche-y Champagne (we will save that discussion for another feature), red and white Burgundy, oxidative wines like dry sherry, and really anything that is simply delicious.
Starting the Meal with Lighter Wines
For family meals like Thanksgiving, we usually start the night with a spread of cheeses. I like to begin with lighter, cheese-friendly wines, and I always offer options. Different guests like different styles, so I tend to open many bottles.
A great place to begin is with something bright and saline, like Ramiro Ibáñez’s UBE Miraflores Palomino from southern Spain. It drinks like a white Burgundy but with a touch of oxidation, which makes it perfect for cutting through the richness of cheese. For red, I like Pinot. I especially love Xander Soren’s wines from California’s Central Coast. His wines are crafted to pair with Japanese cuisine (you will even find them poured at top sushi counters in Japan, including my favorite, Sushi Saito) and they are so pretty and feminine. Try his Olivet Lane, which is ultra smooth with notes of dried strawberry, cassis, and a touch of black pepper. Another choice is Granville’s Holstein Vineyard from Willamette Valley in Oregon.