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Vendanges at Château d’Yquem

Vendanges at Château d’Yquem. Credit: C. Goussard

The Founding Father's Favorite Wine

10 Minute read

Though it isn't clear whether the bottles were intended for private consumption or state dinners, Ludington says the style of wine clearly resonated with Americans.

As France's principal Atlantic port, Bordeaux already enjoyed a logistical advantage over inland regions like Burgundy and Champagne when it came to exporting wine to the eastern United States. Even so, Jefferson's influence mattered. “So surely he influenced those both in Virginia after he retired but also in his roles of government in New York,” says Ludington. At the time, Ludington notes, there wasn't a restaurant or bar scene in America, so “it was the dinner parties of the elite that spread the knowledge of wine.”

A year after his 1790 order, Jefferson wrote to John Bondfield, the acting American consul in Bordeaux, noting that not only had Château d'Yquem captured his own admiration, but it had also won over the broader American market: “This Yquem proves a most excellent wine and seems to have hit the palate of the Americans more than any wine I have ever seen in France.”

A February 1791 ledger from the Château d'Yquem archives records that another 554 bottles were shipped to Jefferson in 10 trunks. Today, as Sauternes remains popular among American collectors and wine enthusiasts, Jefferson's influence has not gone unrecognized. According to Château d'Yquem, the people of Bordeaux honor Jefferson's appreciation for the region's wines with a plaque at the U.S. Consulate commemorating him as a symbol of Franco-American friendship.

While many Americans think of Sauternes as a premium dessert wine, it isn't limited to sweet pairings. Although the exact dishes Jefferson paired with Sauternes were never recorded, Ludington says, “we do have enough evidence to know that whatever pairings he made, he thought very carefully about them.” More broadly, Ludington argues that Jefferson helped shape the way Americans thought about wine. “He thought wine was a dinner necessity and something to be paired with food,” he says.

Pair Sauternes With These Four Dishes

White Asparagus With Beurre Blanc
One of Ludington's favorite pairings with Sauternes is snappy white asparagus topped with a rich beurre blanc. The savory sauce complements the wine's sweetness, while its acidity cuts through the butter's richness.

Bleu Cheese
Long before Emma Bengtsson became executive chef of Aquavit in New York City, she was in her 20s exploring the world of three-MICHELIN-starred restaurants in France when she encountered one of the most memorable food and wine pairings of her life: a single slice of bleu cheese paired with Sauternes. “That was my first ‘aha moment’ for what a really good pairing should be,” recalls Bengtsson. “I can’t remember anything else from that menu, but I remember that pairing like it was yesterday.”

Grilled Scallops
At Aubergine, executive chef Justin Cogley has paired Sauternes, specifically Château Rieussec, with grilled scallops atop aji amarillo, crisp lettuces, and a coconut sauce infused with grilled fish bones. “The dish needs a little heat and the flavors complement the apricot notes in the wine,” he says.

Foie Gras
This indulgent pairing is a classic for a reason. The creamy, savory, and fatty delicacy can quickly overwhelm the palate after only a few bites. A sip of Sauternes resets and refreshes the palate between bites thanks to its acidity and sweetness. Ludington advises adding a little flaky salt atop the foie gras to emphasize the beauty of the salty-sweet combination.

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