In 1787, Thomas Jefferson was in the second year of his four-year tenure as the United States Minister to France (1785-1789). During that time, he kept detailed records of his experiences abroad, including meticulous notes on his epicurean education.
“Jefferson had a very refined palate that was influenced by his time in Paris,” says Charles C. Ludington, a wine historian, university history professor, and general editor of the Bloomsbury Cultural History of Wine. When Jefferson arrived in Paris, Benjamin Franklin was also in France. “Franklin seemed to influence Jefferson by teaching him about as much as he could in his own time in France,” says Ludington.
His education included French restaurant culture and food and wine pairings. Jefferson was already a wine enthusiast. According to Ludington, Madeira was his favorite wine before traveling to France, where he was introduced to the wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the Rhône Valley, broadening his palate. By the time he left France, he had amassed a collection of more than 320 bottles in his Paris cellar.
Among his favorite wines was Sauternes, a white wine from Bordeaux made primarily from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes. Today, it is recognized for its natural sweetness, which comes from botrytis, or noble rot, a beneficial fungus that dehydrates the grapes and concentrates their sugars. While the contemporary style of Sauternes differs from the wines Jefferson drank—merchants commonly blended wines, and botrytis did not become a defining characteristic of Sauternes until the early 19th century—history suggests Jefferson helped introduce the Sauternes region, and one estate in particular, to American wine drinkers.
According to his diaries, Jefferson wrote (errors preserved): “The white wines of Sautern are the most pleasant in Bordeaux, followed by those of Prignac and Barsac.” He also noted that “the best of all belongs to Mr de Lur Saluces.” At the time, Comte Alexandre de Lur Saluces managed Château d’Yquem.
Jefferson appreciated Château d’Yquem so much that, a few months after returning to the United States, he ordered more than 400 bottles from the estate while serving as Secretary of State under George Washington. He requested 10 dozen, or 120 bottles, for himself and 30 dozen for Washington.
“The white wine of Sauternes of your cru… has been so well accepted by Americans who know good wines that I am sure that now that I am back in the United States my countrymen here will admire them,” he wrote in a letter to the Comte de Lur Saluces from Philadelphia on September 6, 1790.