Gabriel Kreuther Pretzels. Credit: Gabriel Kreuther
(From Gabriel Kreuther: The Spirit of Alsace by Gabriel Kreuther with Michael Ruhlman. Copyright © 2021, published by Abrams. Reprinted and lightly edited by permission of Gabriel Kreuther.)
Alsace is a region that, while physically part of France, is culturally neither France nor Germany but a spiritual mixture of both. Here, as in Germany, we love our pretzels and beer—and horseradish, a flavorful but underused aromatic root.
Pretzels are simple to make. The amazing transformation that happens when the leavened, shaped dough is dipped into a base solution (using lye or baking soda) is so satisfying, fun, and delicious, it's especially great to do with kids. Although if you’re using food grade lye (easily available online), you’ll need to be careful, as when it combines with water it is as caustic as sulfuric acid. Lye reacts with carbon dioxide and, in the heat of the oven, forms a carbonate, making the food safe to eat. When cooking with children, just use baking soda. I like the taste of lye-dipped pretzels and the deep brown color the lye creates. But baking soda is an acceptable substitute and completely safe.
While the classic pretzel shape is my favorite, with its twists and the increased surface area that allows for more browning and flavor, you can also make fabulous hamburger buns, pretzel rolls, or a braided pretzel loaf with this dough.
We eat pretzels with a dipping sauce—horseradish, sour cream, and mustard. Fresh horseradish is best, but some brands of prepared horseradish, such as Atomic and Gold Brand, are acceptable.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine warm water, warm milk, and sugar.
- Sprinkle or crumble in the yeast and mix. Let rest 10–15 minutes until foamy.
- Add flour, salt, and melted butter. Mix on low until combined.
- Increase to medium speed and knead 8–10 minutes, until dough is smooth and pulls away from the bowl.
- Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.
- Preheat the oven to 425°F.
- Prepare the dipping solution of your choice (lye or baking soda) in a saucepan.
- Bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat. Be cautious when using lye—use gloves and proper ventilation.
- Turn dough onto a work surface and divide into ten 3-ounce portions.
- Roll each into a 2-foot rope.
- Shape into pretzels by forming a horseshoe, twisting the ends twice, and pressing down to seal.
- Transfer to a Silpat-lined baking sheet.
- Freeze briefly for easier handling.
- Use a slotted spatula to dip each pretzel:
- Lye solution: 15 seconds
- Baking soda solution: 30 seconds
Flip if not fully submerged.
- Return dipped pretzels to baking sheet. For baking soda version, brush with egg wash. Sprinkle with coarse salt.
- Bake 10–12 minutes, until golden brown and crackled.
- Transfer to a wire rack and let cool 5 minutes.
- In a bowl, whisk together sour cream, horseradish, mustard, salt, and pepper.
- Chill until ready to serve.
