Chef Rob Gentile’s Guide to Deboning Fish Like a Pro

I grew up in an Italian immigrant neighborhood where going to the market was part of daily life. I’d tag along with my grandmother, who always asked the right questions: Where did this come from? How fresh is it? Can I smell it? That’s how people used to shop. You went to a butcher, a fishmonger, a specialty store—places where someone actually knew what they were selling.

We’ve lost that connection. Most people buy fish from a grocery store with no one there to guide them. But if you go to the right place, that experience still exists. When I buy seafood today, I call my guy and ask, Where are these scallops from? Who caught them? And he knows.

Branzino is a perfect example. It’s mostly farmed these days, though you can still find wild-caught in Europe. In Los Angeles, it’s on almost every menu. If I’m buying one to cook at home, I go to someone I trust—like Liwei Liao—and I tell them how I’m preparing it. Am I salt-baking it? Making crudo? A good fishmonger will guide you to the best result.

Knowing where your fish comes from and how to handle it makes all the difference—and with the right technique, you can turn it into something incredible.

How to Debone Whole Raw Fish

There are two ways I approach deboning raw fish. You can remove the fillet with the rib cage still attached—an easier method for beginners—or you can slice the fillet completely off the rib cage. I prefer the second technique, which gives you a cleaner result. Let’s assume you’ve already got a gutted whole branzino to work with.

Step 1: Remove the Fillet from the Spine

I start by laying the fish on a clean, stable cutting board. Using kitchen scissors, I cut off the sharp fins along the back, then snip off the side fins.

Next, I separate the fillet from the head. I make a straight incision behind the gill plate—that bony flap just behind the head.

Using the tip of a sharp knife, I slowly slice along one side of the spine and down the backbone, working from the top of the fish to the tail. I use long, gentle movements to avoid tearing the flesh.

Then I continue making soft, sweeping cuts toward the spine. Once I reach the belly, I slice cleanly through to the tail and flip the fillet back to expose the rib cage.

Step 2: Remove the Fillet from the Rib Cage

Here’s where precision matters. I angle the knife toward the ribs and begin peeling the flesh back with my fingers while using the tip of the blade to trace along the rib cage.

You should hear a light clicking sound—as if the knife is running across a comb. That means you're close to the bone, which is exactly where you want to be.

Once the fillet is fully detached, I lift it off the bones. Then I flip the fish and repeat the process on the other side. The spine and head can be discarded at this point.

Step 3: Remove the Pin Bones

Sometimes there’s a line of pin bones near the thick top portion of the fillet. I run my fingertip down the center to find them. Once located, I use fish tweezers or needle-nose pliers to grip the bones and pull them out in the same direction they grow. If the fish is super fresh, they’ll be embedded tightly—so a firm but steady hand helps.

Now the fillets are ready for whatever dish you’ve got in mind.

How to Debone Cooked Fish

Deboning cooked fish starts with prepping it properly. If I want crisp skin, I treat it like I would a turkey—by air-drying it in the fridge. This draws out moisture, concentrates the flavor, and gives the skin a rich, golden crispness when cooked.

Step 1: Season It with Good Salt

At Stella, I use six or seven finishing salts depending on the dish. I like smoked salt, dried lemon salt, or salt mixed with fennel pollen. Our fish salt blends fennel pollen, lavender, coriander seed, and lemon zest—and it works with just about anything.

No matter what you use, make sure it’s 100% natural. I’m partial to the salt from Cervia, Italy, but Himalayan salt is a great choice, too.

Step 2: Cook to the Right Temperature

I always use a thermometer for accuracy. I insert it into the thickest part of the fish, right near the spine. I pull the fish at 130°F and let it rest until it hits 140°F. This gives me tender, just-cooked flesh with perfect texture.

Step 3: Remove the Skin (If Desired)

To remove the skin, I use a long-pronged fork and angle it like a spoon. I break the skin behind the head near the gills, then pierce the tail and twist—just like I’m twirling spaghetti. The skin rolls back in one smooth sheet, like peeling a blanket.

Step 4: Separate the Fillets from the Spine

I run a spoon down the centerline to separate the belly and back. Then I use a fish spatula or spoon to gently pop the fillets off the bone and lift them onto a plate. If it’s cooked properly, the meat lifts away clean. If it clings, give it another minute or two.

Step 5: Remove the Spine and Pin Bones

After removing the fillets, I lift out the head and spine—it should come off in one clean piece. Then I use tweezers or a spoon to remove any leftover pin bones. They should slide out easily, leaving you with a perfect fillet ready to serve.

Essential Tools I Rely On

These are the tools I use in my kitchen—and the same ones I recommend for anyone deboning fish at home.

• Fish scissors – Great for trimming fins and making precise cuts before you start filleting.
• A sharp knife – I prefer a Deba, but any well-balanced, razor-sharp knife will do the trick.
• Fish spatula – A must for flipping and lifting whole fish gently, especially once it’s cooked.
• Bone tweezers or needle-nose pliers – For removing stubborn pin bones cleanly and without tearing the flesh.
• Pastry brush or stiff brush – If I’m salt-baking a fish, I use this to sweep away the crust without damaging the fillet.

Final Tips from My Kitchen

• Use great salt. I’m a firm believer that the right salt makes all the difference. Smoked salt, fennel pollen salt, or lemon zest–infused salt can elevate the flavor of any fish.
• Know your source. I always go to a trusted fishmonger—someone who can tell me where the fish came from, when it was caught, and how it was handled.
• Handle with care. Whether raw or cooked, fish deserves respect. Precise deboning preserves the integrity of the fillet and minimizes waste.