Roscioli

At Roscioli, the line between a first-rate delicatessen and a destination for diners dissolves. The New York establishment channels its Roman predecessor's spirit, with a dining room set in the middle of a functioning alimentari, a food shop where nearly every surface is stocked with Italian provisions. The founding principle is simple: great ingredients from the deli make for a great meal, a philosophy that informs every plate leaving the kitchen. This creates a coherence rarely found in the city’s many Italian eateries, a place where the supply chain for a pasta dish is often measured in feet.\nThe kitchen’s focus is decidedly Roman. The heart of the culinary selection is an exceptional pasta program, which has become known for its renditions of the classics: carbonara, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, and gricia. These preparations are executed with discipline, relying on the high quality of foundational ingredients like guanciale and Pecorino Romano to carry the flavor. Beyond the pastas, other offerings are similarly product-driven, from boards of sourced cured meats and artisanal cheeses to simple plates of fried artichokes or burrata with Puglian sun-dried tomatoes.\nThe space itself is divided. The bustling ground-level dining area and deli counter offer an à la carte selection. Downstairs, a brick-lined cellar provides a more intimate setting, hosting coursed dinners that delve deeper into the restaurant's notable wine collection. With a list of over 3,000 labels, the beverage program is a core component of the identity here. Both the casual meal surrounded by pantry shelves and the more structured tasting are rooted in the Roman philosophy of letting exceptional products speak for themselves.