Located in San Francisco’s Russian Hill neighborhood, Nisei is a jewel box of a restaurant in more ways than one. Dark walls and colorful artwork create an intimate backdrop, but what defines the experience is a sense of discovery. The unassuming exterior gives no hint of the restaurant’s accolades or intricately composed menu.
Nisei opened in 2021 and earned its Michelin star just one year later. On the rotating tasting menu, chef David Yoshimura serves a high-end interpretation of washoku—seasonal, balanced Japanese cuisine—alongside progressive expressions of Japanese-American cooking. Each course is meticulously plated and presented with thoughtful commentary from the expertly trained staff. Some dishes pay homage to nostalgic childhood staples or traditional Japanese classics, while others reflect the chef’s continued evolution.
“Over time, as I became comfortable, I started experimenting more with local Bay Area products and pushing the refinement of my time-tested Japanese recipes,” he says. “During this time, I had a revelation, and came to terms with my own experience of being half Japanese and half American; I began to cook more honestly with myself, and incorporate my experiences I had gained throughout my life and career.”
The restaurant’s recent multi-course menu has included black cod “chowder” with sourdough mochi, Japanese black curry with fermented peppers and beef heart, and venison tataki with gooseberries. Pairings of wine or sake are available. The beverage program, led by Master Sommelier Andrey Ivanov, highlights rare and hard-to-find selections from around the world, and includes a curated list of cocktails—many of which can be explored next door at the restaurant’s more casual spin-off, Bar Iris.