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Dolly Parton

Publicity shot of American singer Dolly Parton, 1977. Credit RCA Records

Dolly Parton’s Delicious Culinary Legacy

12 Minute read

Dolly wasn’t the fanciest or most refined person. She loved what she loved, wholly and unabashedly: wearing too much makeup, adorning herself in rhinestones and sequins, digging into a homemade meal she fixed just for her and husband Carl Dean. “I’ll cook the stuff that I know we love,” she told People in 2020. “And I pack it up in a picnic basket. And then we’ll go find some riverbank somewhere with our little camper, park, have a picnic.”

Dolly always understood that food was one of life’s supreme pleasures. She loved to talk about it, and she loved to fantasize about it. “My weaknesses are food and men — in that order,” she famously said. In her 2012 Vanity Fair Proust Questionnaire, when asked about her idea of perfect happiness, she said: “A big loaded baked potato and a good book with time to eat it and read it.”

Food is also one of her most effective storytelling tools, at the center of some of her most famous songs. Her 1984 song “Tennessee Homesick Blues,” the one that added “It’s hard to be a diamond in a rhinestone world” to the lexicon of Dollyisms, recounts some of her favorite childhood memories of growing up in the Smoky Mountains. In the song, she longs to be back at the family’s fishing hole, “eating green apples and waiting for the fish to bite,” and recalls Sunday suppers after church, “eating grits and gravy and country ham.”

“What I wouldn’t give for a little bitty taste of mama’s homemade chocolate cake,” Dolly sings. “Tennessee homesick blues running through my head.”

One of my most prized possessions is my grandmother’s copy of the original Dollywood cookbook, Dollywood Presents Tennessee Mountain Home Cooking. Inside, in blue ink, she wrote, “August 1990, Pigeon Forge, Tenn.” I was eight, and it was my first trip to the park. Every time I plan a trip back to Dollywood, I plan it around meals: when we’ll have fried chicken and biscuits at Aunt Granny’s, the restaurant in the park named for what Dolly’s nieces and nephews all called her growing up; when we’ll stop for pit ham at Granny Ogle’s, named for her lifelong best friend Judy Ogle’s mother; when we’ll pop into Spotlight Bakery for a three-pound slice of its 25-pound apple pie. Whether we’ll get the park’s famous cinnamon bread isn’t the question; it’s how many times we’ll have it, usually warm right out of the oven, drizzled with icing and the park’s signature apple butter.

But in my grief over her loss, the food I keep thinking of isn’t actually Dolly’s; it’s her character Truvy’s, from the 1989 movie Steel Magnolias, a recipe she rattles off as she’s doing hair in her salon Truvy’s Beauty Spot.

“A cup of flour, a cup of sugar, a cup of fruit cocktail with the juice,” she says. “Mix it up and bake at 350°F ‘til golden bubbly.”

“Sounds awfully rich,” Clairee, played by Olympia Dukakis, responds.

“It is,” Truvy says, “so I serve it over ice cream to cut the sweetness.”

As many times as I’ve recited the recipe in my head, I’ve never made it.

On the way home from dinner on the day Dolly died, where a friend and I toasted her with martinis and more than a few misty-eyed moments, I stopped to get the ingredients for that cuppa cake. Soon, I’ll gather the people I love most and put a spread out on the table inspired by Dolly and the culinary legacy she left behind. The chicken and dumplings her loved ones celebrated her with. The legendary cole slaw Dolly would make for them. (The secret ingredient, besides being prepared by the lady herself, is pickle juice.) The Appalachian apple stack cake Avie Lee would make in that tiny cabin in the 1950s. And that cuppa cake, served golden bubbly, an homage to one of the most genuine, generous and singular people who ever lived.

Dollywood’s Cinnamon Bread

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