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Beyond Appetite: Fine Dining in the GLP-1 Era

10 Minute read
Fine Dining

Credit: Urban Gyllstrom on Unsplash

Keeping Diners Engaged

At many fine-dining restaurants, the goal remains much the same: to keep guests engaged and, somehow, hungry for what comes next throughout the tasting menu. “I have the impression that people using these drugs become even more intentional about the meals they choose to have,” says Bernardo Silva, co-founder of Frevo, a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York’s Greenwich Village. Fine dining, Silva argues, is already an intentional meal: people book it for the experience, to celebrate an occasion, or to encounter a different perspective on food.

Even before GLP-1 drugs became widely used, he says, guests would arrive having planned their day around dinner. “I’ve heard customers say, ‘I didn’t have lunch today because I was preparing for this meal.’ They wanted to make the most of the experience.”

Managing appetite was already part of the job. “We’ve always been concerned about making sure the meal isn’t too heavy. It’s a difficult balance because people have different appetites,” he says. Anyone familiar with tasting menus knows the feeling: there are still three or four courses to go, and you’re already full. “It’s not a good feeling,” Silva adds. “For us, that concern existed before GLP-1.”

Part of the answer may lie in making satiety as much a consideration as flavor. The paradox of the tasting menu is that its plates may be small, but the meal itself often isn’t. Spread across ten, fifteen, or more courses, dinner can add up quickly.

But variety can encourage us to keep eating. As we eat the same food, our pleasure in it declines, while foods with different flavors can remain appealing. Scientists call this sensory-specific satiety. Research has found that people eat more when multicourse meals offer greater variety. Just as one flavor loses its pull, another arrives: acidic after fatty, crisp after soft, cold after hot, savory before sweet. “Pleasure and liking are more rapidly reduced by satiety, fullness, and lack of novelty,” Sternson says. GLP-1 drugs can bring that fullness on sooner.

Lighter by Design

At SingleThread, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Healdsburg, California, chef Kyle Connaughton says he has not noticed an impact from diners taking the drugs. He describes its ten-course, kaiseki-inspired tasting menu as built around vegetables, seafood, and lean proteins, with relatively little sugar, carbohydrates, or heavy dairy. “Maybe we were a bit ahead of the curve naturally for some of these trends, but hardly in a conscious way,” Connaughton says.

That doesn’t mean, he cautions, that SingleThread’s menu “naturally appeals to a GLP-1 user.” The drugs have never figured into how the restaurant cooks, he says. Instead, its lighter approach comes from the experience it wants to create and happens to align with what a growing number of diners are now seeking. Much of the produce comes from SingleThread’s 24-acre farm, where vegetables are harvested at peak ripeness, and preparations tend to support rather than overwhelm their flavors.

“It’s a natural process for us that comes from the experience we want guests to have,” Connaughton says. “And definitely to avoid the experience we don’t want them to have: feeling too full, feeling ‘hungover’ from too much rich or sweet food. It’s just our own way of liking to cook and dine ourselves.”

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