Dining out in America has never been more expensive. Inflation, tariffs, rising rents, labor costs, and economic uncertainty have put pressure on restaurants and diners alike. But our desire to eat delicious food made by brilliant chefs, to have a little treat, if you will, has arguably never been higher. Spending time outside North America gave me one potential compromise, and that, my friends, is lunch.
In France, restaurants commonly offer a lunchtime prix fixe known as la formule, or the formula. It’s a set menu of two or three courses that gives diners an affordable option for an appetizer and a main, a main and a dessert, or, in the best-case scenario, a shot at all three. If you’ve never experienced it, the chance to have a lovely, long three-course meal in the afternoon instead of the evening is idyllic. Since I started living in France for a few months each year, I’ve actually begun to prefer it.
Here in Los Angeles, chef Ludo Lefebvre has been proudly repping la formule at lunch for years at both locations of his acclaimed Petit Trois. For $44, guests get a three-course meal from the lauded chef. Currently, there are Bibb lettuces or beets to start, followed by steak frites, a staple that never leaves the menu, a seasonally rotating fish dish, or a pasta option. Classic French desserts like choux Chantilly or chocolate mousse round out the meal. In a town where steak frites alone can run more than $40, the setup is a steal.
“My restaurant is French and I wanted to create a French experience,” says Lefebvre, who opened Petit Trois in 2014. “It’s the cheapest way to experience the restaurant for those who don’t want to spend $100 per person, so it’s accessible for a lot of people. Lunch is very important in French culture, but in America, a little less so. In France, because the culture is about living for food, when you have a break, you go eat and enjoy your life. It’s very much about socializing. When my mother comes here to see me, she’s in shock that we don’t do lunch. She’ll say, ‘Where’s the lunch? We’re not sitting at the table? We’re not having a meal?’”