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Big Mec Burger at Petit Trois

Big Mec Burger at Petit Trois

Meet Me for Dinner at Noon

10 Minute read

Americans’ attitude toward lunch might finally be shifting. Chef Nicolas Lopez, who helms the kitchen at Txula Steak by José Andrés in Hudson Yards, has noticed a change in recent months. Lopez says he’s seeing fewer office workers grabbing quick takeout orders to eat at their desks and more taking the time to sit down, eat, and unplug before returning to the office. Even if that means 45 minutes or an hour, it’s still an improvement over the dreary desk salad.

“In North America, work culture tends to prioritize shorter breaks and faster pacing,” Lopez says. “Lunch is often treated as functional rather than experiential. That said, we’re seeing a shift in major cities where diners are rediscovering lunch as an opportunity for connection and enjoyment, just in a format that better fits their schedules. A well-priced lunch menu can introduce new guests to a restaurant’s culinary identity and create repeat traffic, especially in business districts.”

He notes that in Spain, lunch is “almost sacred” and can often stretch on for hours. While Txula’s own afternoon menu, the Txula Power Lunch, is built for flavor and efficiency, it’s still a nod to the Basque culture the restaurant draws on. Starting with a traditional pintxo, diners are then given a choice of entrées such as charcoal-grilled cod loin with tomato sauce or Biarritz skirt steak with fries, followed by a dessert like Basque cheesecake.

The three-course offering is $45 and can be completed in as little as 45 minutes for diners in a time crunch. Those who want to linger can order the Martini Hayworth with a gilda skewer, practically a portal to Spain. “The common thread is this: lunch works best when it respects people’s time while still delivering a sense of occasion,” Lopez concludes.

On the restaurant side, a lunch menu can be an effective way to introduce a chef to new diners. For Lefebvre, an accessible price point can get guests in the door and give them a taste of what his restaurants are all about. “The lunch menu is good for me to attract people who have never been to Petit Trois,” he says. “I choose the dishes by taking the most successful and popular plates and offering them in slightly smaller portions. If people come in to try the prix fixe menu, I have to make sure they love the food, then maybe they’ll come back.”

Maybe the answer to increasingly expensive dinners isn’t to stop dining out, but to reconsider when we do it. Lunch can offer much of what draws us to dinner in the first place: ambitious cooking, time around the table, and a sense of occasion, often at a price that makes trying a great restaurant a little easier to justify. The experience doesn’t have to change just because the reservation is at noon.

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