At their Moscow restaurant, the twins are obsessive about pushing the creative gastronomic possibilities of vegetables to the very limits and it starts with their own farm where they control the growing process.
Looking at their methods they resemble a pair of Russian scientists let loose in the lab – fermenting, dry ageing, reducing, constantly looking for the new flavour profile and unexpected pairing. With an aeroponic fruit and vegetable system installed in the restaurant and a laboratory, in which you can also eat if you prefer, they aim for self-sufficiency.
The Berezutskiy twins have a real gastronomic pedigree - Ivan worked at elBulli and El Celler de Can Roca in Spain, and Sergey at Alinea in Chicago and Varvary in Moscow. What they are doing in Moscow is at the vanguard of Russian cuisine, marrying the traditional with the innovative.
Their place at no. 19 in the World’s 50 Best is well deserved and as their methodology gets more refined and they continue to expand their culinary universe you might yet see the Berezutskiy twins challenge for the highest place on the list in the next few years.
Staff shortages are hitting the hospitality sector hard, prompting some restaurants to look outside the industry to train those without restaurant experience for life in the kitchen. Andrew Friedman finds out more.