Chef Ana Roš has just got back from a run when we speak, a run that has seen her create two new dishes in her head.
“My running is always full of observing the nature,” says the Chef’s Table star. “We just started having rowan berries – such a particular berry: very bitter and sour, and it has this weird sweetness. So I was constructing a dessert in my head and it’s actually going to be probably a reconstruction of All Bran with raisins and apple. And the other thing I noticed is the walnuts are falling down now, so probably I’ll create a savoury dish, combining potato and walnut. One will probably come out at the beginning of next week, and the other will happen next week, so by Friday I guess both of them will be out. We are very creative in this period.”
Beef tongue umami – smoked celeriac puree, beef tongue, scallop mayonnaise, raw scallop, kombu, pickled celeriac, Meditteranean dashi
You don’t say. This sense of always being in motion, in tune with the turning of the Earth is at the heart of what Roš does at her restaurant Hiša Franko in Kobarid, Slovenia, which this year entered The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the first time, at number 48. The restaurant with lodgings can be found nestled between the mountains and the Adriatic Sea, in the far West of this tiny country, close to the border with Italy. Roš sources all her produce locally, from the foragers and producers who have been following the same trails and techniques for generations, but she doesn’t believe in signature dishes she says – nothing stays on the menu long enough. Nature’s bounty is too plentiful and these parts and she doesn’t want to miss a thing.