Kabocha Squash and Fennel Soup
FOR THE SOUP
Kabocha squash: 2 lbs
Fennel: 2 medium bulbs
Extra virgin olive oil: 4 tbsp
Fennel seeds: 2 tsp
Unsalted butter: 4 tbsp
Onions: 2 cups (sliced)
Thyme leaves: 1 tbsp
Chiles de árbol: 2
Bay leaf: 1
Sherry: 3/4 cup
Chicken stock or vegetable stock or water: 10 cups
Crème fraîche: 1/4 cup
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper: to taste
FOR THE CANDIED PUMPKIN SEEDS
Cumin seeds: 1/4 tsp
Unsalted butter: 2 tsp
Raw pumpkin seeds: 1/2 cup
Granulated sugar: 1 tbsp
Ground cinnamon, paprika, and cayenne pepper: generous pinch of each
Honey: 1 tsp
Kosher salt: to taste
Suzanne Goin’s kabocha squash and fennel soup with crème fraîche and candied pumpkin seeds is a deeply warming dish built on roasting, spice, and careful balance.
(Excerpted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Excerpted by permission of Knopf, a division of Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.)
Of all winter squash, Kabocha holds a special place in my heart. Rich and sweet, its dense orange flesh is one of my favorite winter flavors. For this soup, instead of sauteing the squash and fennel, I roast them in the oven to bring out their natural sweetness. If you can’t find Kabocha, use another winter squash, such as butternut or Hubbard. The pumpkin seeds, or pepitas, are coated in sugar, paprika, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne; I think of them as adult Halloween candy. Sprinkled over the top, they give this delicious winter soup a festy coronation.
- Preheat the oven to 400°F.
- Cut the squash in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds.
- Place the squash cut side down on a cutting board, and use a sharp knife to remove the peel.
- Slice the squash into 1-inch-thick wedges.
- Cut the fennel in half lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch-thick wedges.
- Toss the squash and fennel with the olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and some freshly ground black pepper.
- Place the vegetables flat on a baking sheet and roast about 35 minutes, until tender and slightly caramelized.
- Meanwhile, toast the fennel seeds in a small pan over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes, until the seeds release their aroma and are lightly browned.
- Pound them coarsely in a mortar.
- Heat a Dutch oven or soup pot over high heat for 2 minutes.
- Add the butter, and when it foams, add the onions, fennel seeds, thyme, chiles, bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt, and a good amount of freshly ground black pepper.
- Reduce the heat to medium-high, and cook about 10 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are soft, translucent, and starting to color.
- Add the squash and fennel, and stir to coat with the onions for a minute.
- Turn the heat back up to high and pour in the sherry.
- Let it reduce for a minute or two, and then add the stock and 1 tablespoon salt.
- Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer 20 minutes.
- Toast the cumin seeds in a small pan over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes, until the seeds release their aroma and are lightly browned.
- Pound them coarsely in a mortar.
- Melt the butter in the cumin pan over medium heat.
- Add the pumpkin seeds and sugar, then sprinkle the spices and a healthy pinch of salt over them.
- Toss the pumpkin seeds to coat them well with the butter, and cook a few minutes, until just after they begin to pop and color slightly.
- Turn off the heat, and wait 30 seconds.
- Add the honey, tossing well to coat the pumpkin seeds.
- Spread on a plate and let them cool.
- Strain the soup in a colander set in a pot.
- Put a third of the solids into a blender with 1/2 cup of the broth. (You will need to purée the soup in batches.)
- Process at the lowest speed until the squash mixture is puréed.
- Add another 1/2 cup broth and then turn the speed up to high and pour in more liquid, a little at a time, until the soup has the consistency of heavy cream.
- Blend at least a minute on high speed, until the soup is completely smooth and very creamy.
- Transfer to a container, and repeat with the rest of the ingredients.
- You may not need all the liquid.
- Taste for balance and seasoning.
- Pour the soup into six bowls, spoon some crème fraîche in the center of each, and scatter the pumpkin seeds over the top.
- Or serve family-style in a tureen with the crème fraîche and pumpkin seeds on the side.
