Chestnut Grits
FOR THE MUSHROOM MOUSSE
Mushroom oil: 115 g (divided)
Shallots: 100 g (minced)
Mushroom scraps: 400 g (roughly chopped)
Mushroom ferment: 150 g
Ginger kombucha: 150 g
Mushroom pressé: 200 g
Xanthan gum: 1 g
Coffee extract: 1 g
Salt: 6 g
White truffle: 2 g (frozen)
FOR THE GRITS
Earth Balance vegan butter: 113 g
Porcini powder: 1 tbsp
Chorizo powder: 2 tbsp
Mushroom stock: 1.4 l
Chestnut flour: 60 g (coarsely ground)
Yellow corn grits: 270 g
Water: as needed
Salt: to taste
“This is another dish that we serve on every menu, from brunch to dinner to off-site pop-up, and it has become nearly synonymous with HAGS. I love to share this recipe with folks because I think it betrays the quiet technicality inherent to simple preparations. Grits are very simple to cook, but like anything else, they are difficult to perfect. Ours are an homage to a dish that really nourished me and inspired me as a young and hungry vegan cook in the South.
Mushroom grits were frequently the only entrée option I could eat at the restaurants around Atlanta, and their ubiquity left me yearning for something more nuanced and thoughtful. This version of mushroom grits highlights a lot of unique local ingredients, and with those ingredients come new flavors and textures you’re not likely to see in your typical grits dish. We serve it with chestnut mushrooms that are slowly cooked in Georgia olive oil until meltingly tender, as well as a few fresh shavings of black truffle over top. Hidden beneath the grits, as an added layer of luxury, is our mushroom mousse, made with various waste-reduction ingredients, making this a truly closed-loop plate of food. Despite the work that goes into this dish and the rigorous sourcing, it tastes just like a hug and satisfies on a deep emotional level.”
- Heat 75 g of the mushroom oil in a rondeau pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and mushroom scraps and cook until softened and lightly caramelized.
- Add the mushroom ferment, ginger kombucha, and mushroom pressé. Cook over medium heat until nearly all the liquid has reduced.
- Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until smooth. With the blender running, feather in the xanthan gum, then slowly stream in the remaining mushroom oil.
- Add the salt, coffee extract, and frozen truffle, and blend until completely smooth. Transfer to a container and refrigerate until ready to use.
- In a high-walled pot over medium heat, melt the Earth Balance. Reduce the heat to low and add the porcini and chorizo powders. Toast gently, stirring constantly, until fragrant.
- Add the mushroom stock and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, pass the chestnut flour through a fine sieve into a bowl, then whisk in the corn grits.
- Finger-sift the grits mixture into the boiling liquid, whisking continuously to prevent clumps. Once fully incorporated, reduce the heat to low.
- Cook at a gentle simmer for 10–15 minutes, stirring frequently with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon. The grits will thicken and homogenize but should remain loose. Add water as needed if the mixture becomes too thick.
- Cover the pot, turn off the heat, and let rest for at least 30 minutes to fully hydrate. Season with salt to taste and loosen with additional water if needed.
- Spoon mushroom mousse into the bottom of each bowl.
- Top with warm grits and finish with shaved truffle or sautéed mushrooms, if desired.
