From Fire-Cooked Fish to Grandma’s Pasta: A Q&A with Chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

At Birdie’s in Austin, chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel brings soulfulness and simplicity to the table—whether it’s a salt-baked fish cooked over fire or a nostalgic bowl of spaghetti. Here, she shares what comfort food means to her, what fine dining really is, and the pasta that made her kick and scream as a kid.

Diana Spechler

5 Minute read

04 Apr 2025

Boost us on

Credit: Carter Hiyama

At Birdie’s in Austin, chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel brings soulfulness and simplicity to the table—whether it’s a salt-baked fish cooked over fire or a nostalgic bowl of spaghetti. Here, she shares what comfort food means to her, what fine dining really is, and the pasta that made her kick and scream as a kid.

What Is Your Deserted Island Meal?

If I was actually on a deserted island, probably grilled oysters and salt-baked fish over a fire on the beach—with champagne.

What’s Your Most Poignant Food Memory?

As a two-year-old, I would lay on the ground, kick, and scream, “Noo Noo’s!” for my Grandma Aiello’s pasta. I had an abnormal excitement for eating—especially pasta—from a very young age.

What Does Fine Dining Mean to You?

A meal made with extra attention to detail, technique, flavor, and balance.

What Are Your Restaurant Goals or Dreams?

To continue to evolve our cuisine at Birdie’s and get a little better every day.

What’s On Your Restaurant Bucket List to Visit?

I want to explore the regional, traditional grandmother cuisine of Italy and France.

What Is Your Food/Cooking Philosophy?

Find the best ingredients and treat them with respect.

What's Your Comfort Food?

Spaghetti Bolognese.

The Chef

The Texas-based chef behind Birdie’s is known for her elegant, seasonal cooking and commitment to sustainability.

View profile

Spread the flavor - share this story.

About the author

Diana Spechler is a novelist, essayist, and food-and-travel writer whose work appears in The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Guardian, Bon Appetit, Travel + Leisure,...

IN THIS ARTICLE: