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It's no surprise that Vancouver, with its history of environmental activism, is the epicentre of a global sustainable seafood movement. Greenpeace was founded here in 1971 and the Vancouver Aquarium has been educating the public on ocean conservation since 1956, evangelising sustainable seafood with Ocean Wise since 2005. As a relatively young city, Vancouver still has abundant natural resources and sophisticated diners with disposable income to support sustainable sourcing. The city attracts people from diverse geographic and cultural backgrounds, but reverence for nature is a core value among locals. Here are some of the best places in the city to enjoy sustainably-sourced seafood.
Globe@YVR
Right when you land in Vancouver, you'll find incredible pescatarian fine dining without even leaving the airport. Fairmont Vancouver Airport is one of the best airport hotels in the world and flagship restaurant Globe@YVR is an Ocean Wise partner with a seafood-focused menu. Executive chef Harris Sakalis has worked all around the world but says he's so impressed with the seafood in Vancouver. "The diversity of ocean life harvested from the Pacific waters, and the emphasis on quality and sustainability really set Vancouver apart," he says.
Seafood towers and Dungeness crab cakes are popular at dinner, as well as Pacific line-caught halibut basted in herbed butter and served with braised leeks and potato brandade. You can even enjoy a smoked sockeye salmon omelette breakfast in bed wrapped in a fluffy bathrobe before boarding your flight.
Miku
This waterfront sushi restaurant is located right by the cruise terminal and is a worthy stop for any tourist. Miku popularised flame-seared aburi sushi in Vancouver and their wild sockeye salmon and jalapeño oshi nigiri with secret Miku sauce should not be missed. Lobster ceviche with yuzu dashi and white tiger prawn fritters in herbed beer batter are a couple of other Ocean Wise picks that are perfect for sharing. Request a window seat for views of the Vancouver Harbour and North Shore Mountains. Miku's sister restaurant Minami serves Ocean Wise seafood too, and Aburi Market offers restaurant-quality sushi to-go and fresh fish fillets to cook at home.
Fanny Bay Oyster Bar & Shellfish Market
You'll spot Fanny Bay oysters on menus across town at restaurants like Fish Man, Blue Water Cafe and Boulevard Oyster Bar & Kitchen. The Ocean Wise Certified producer also has their own oyster bar and market downtown where you can take oyster shucking classes and enjoy $2 CAD house oysters during daily happy hour from 2 to 6 pm. Oysters are filter feeders, so they actually improve the water quality and clarity in the habitat where they grow, making them one of the most sustainable and nutritious seafood species. Order the seacuterie platter at the raw bar to share with friends for a feast of smoked scallops and mussels, albacore tuna crudo, prawns, grilled sourdough and housemade pickles. Depending on the season there might be local red sea urchin, geoduck or live Dungeness crab on the menu too.
Published on Main
Photo: Sarah Annand
Chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson often works with Organic Ocean to source sustainable seafood for his everchanging dishes at Vancouver's most acclaimed restaurant. Side stripe prawns are one of the only staples on the hyper-seasonal, ingredient-driven menu where in-season seafood like Manitoba pickerel, Gindara sablefish, and local halibut and spot prawns from British Columbia shine. "We always try to stay away from farmed products, and not stray too far from home," Stieffenhofer-Brandson explains. "We are right on the ocean, so it makes sense to use seafood from our waters as much as possible."
Published on Main has been named the best restaurant in the country by Canada's 100 best restaurants and received a Michelin star in Vancouver's inaugural guide. You can order à la carte but the tasting menu allows Stieffenhofer-Brandson and his team to simply feed you, taking into account any dietary restrictions and allergies, and it's the best way to experience the restaurant.
The Fish Counter
Sizzling halibut and Pacific cod fish and chips straight from the fryer and seafood chowder are ideal comfort foods during a cold, rainy Vancouver winter. One of The Fish Counter's co-founders, Mike McDermid, is now the director of fisheries and seafood for Ocean Wise, and their mission is to bring high-quality, affordable sustainable seafood into Vancouver kitchens. There's not much seating at this family-owned seafood market, just a small counter by the window. They purchase seafood directly from small local fishermen and cut fish every morning. Freshness is paramount – everything is sold the same day and leftovers get cooked in bouillabaisse or ground up to make halibut dumplings or fish and shrimp cakes the next day.
Dachi
Photo: Scott Mitchell
The menu at this natural wine bar in East Vancouver is small but mighty. Chef Ben Berwick works with Fresh Ideas Start Here to vet all of their seafood including Ocean Wise dishes like scallop tiradito, charcoal grilled sockeye salmon with garden shiso chimichurri and seared halibut with garlic scape sauce and hakurei turnips. "The few times I've gone out with Jenice from Fresh Ideas Start Here, it's been so educational and eye-opening," Berwick says. "We've fished for salmon and uni, learning where to go and when. It's such a dynamic ecosystem and it's important to understand where our food comes from."
The Sandbar
Located in the heart of Granville Island, one of Vancouver's most popular tourist attractions, every table at this Ocean Wise seafood restaurant has waterfront views. The rooftop patio is first come, first serves, so stop by to put your name on the waitlist then walk around exploring Granville Island while you wait for your table. Happy hour deals include garlicky mussels, ahi tuna poke and coconut shrimp while the fresh market price fish might include miso-ginger Haida Gwaii sablefish and Cajun-style ling cod, wild coho salmon and a variety of oysters served raw on the half shell. Sunday night seafood boils are popular in summer, and there's a sushi bar by master sushi chef Tsutomu Hoshi and live music nightly.
Wildlight Kitchen + Bar
The pescatarian charcuterie board at this new restaurant is a perfect representation of chef Warren Chow's dedication to sourcing sustainable local seafood, with housemade salmon pastrami, beet-cured ling cod, marinated Salt Spring Island mussels, smoked albacore tataki, cod rillette and pickled sea asparagus artfully arranged and served with nori crackers and papadum. The seafood fettuccine is another great seafood showcase, with smoked salmon, prawns, littleneck clams and Salt Spring Island mussels tossed in your choice of white wine cream or tomato dill sauce. If you're a fan of Nobu's miso black cod, you need to try the torched white miso koji Gindara sablefish too, with soba noodles and glazed baby bok choy.
Savio Volpe
This rustic osteria is all about simply prepared Italian classics, including fresh pasta handmade daily, coal-roasted vegetables and wood-fired proteins, like Organic Ocean sockeye salmon with marinated zucchini and saffron butter. Culinary director Phil Scarfone is committed to sourcing from local companies like albacore tuna loin from family-run Mitch's Catch for a pristine product that honours Ocean Wise best practices. "We have never supported the open-net salmon farms that currently exist on the West Coast, as they are detrimental to the ecological health of spawning native salmon populations," he says.
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