New York: Where to Eat Well by Su Wong Ruiz

I don’t know who owns Pho Shop, and like any neighborhood Vietnamese place, you have your go-to orders and you don’t venture far from that. I count my blessings that their namesake pho has been consistently good; order the deluxe version, the pho king with a range of omosa (tripe), tendon along with thin beef in a rich and balanced broth. This is the cringey part where I declare that I’ve eaten in some of the best pho shops in Hanoi, and Pho Shop is nowhere close, BUT, it certainly provides a delicious interpretation of the real thing half a world away.

Their noodle section is solid. Definitely adjusted for the Western palate - read 'sweet' - but satisfies ably your Thai street-food craving. Their pad kee mao, kua gai and pad see ew are my go-tos - the standards fall into the muddled category outside of the noodle section. 

Once a year, I will get the distinct craving for borscht, goulash and opera cake all at once. And I will come here, deal with the silly line, the inconsistent service and the silly prices, to fix that culinary itch in a room that looks like a movie set, and derive some joy from the wooden newspaper holders. Just once a year. 

I had no idea until just recently that the chef at neighborhood stalwart Cafe Alsace, Phillipe Roussel, once worked under Michel Troisgros. Maybe that explains why, sitting alongside the Jocelynne Wildenstein wannabes at the bar, you forget your immediate scene and just enjoy the food. I do not venture far from the sausages (from another neighborhood classic, Schaller & Weber) and sauerkraut, the beef tartare, the burger and the steak frites. The duck terrine on the country board is also very respectable. 

Has been around since 1984 and I avoided it the same way I avoided Elio’s thinking it wasn’t my crowd. It still isn’t my crowd but as you now already know my theme, I have my takeout go-tos. They make one of the best grilled calamari appetisers around. That, with a side of grilled vegetables and their hearts of palm salad finished with the tiramisu, is nothing to complain about. Their pizzas are also good. I cannot say the same about the pastas. 

They pull the best pint of Guinness in the neighborhood.