David Nayfeld's Cheeseburger. Credit: Eric Wolfinger
Ground beef: 2 lb (80% lean, 20% fat)
Dijon mustard: 1/4 cup
Mayonnaise: 1 cup
Red onions: 2 crosswise slices (separated into rings)
Heirloom tomatoes: 4 (1/2-inch thick, only if in season)
Sharp cheddar or another cheese of your choice: 8 slices
Iceberg lettuce: 1 head (leaves separated and torn into small wedges)
Dill pickles: 2 (very thinly sliced)
Coarse sea salt: to season
Freshly ground black pepper: to season
Unsalted butter: 3.5 tbsp, plus more as needed
Burger buns: 4 (split)
Kosher salt: to taste
“A burger made well at home rivals even your favorite burger chain,” says Nayfeld. His tips are as follows:
- “Don’t overmix the meat. It will become dense and tacky.”
- “Make sure you season the meat well. Oftentimes, the difference between one of the best burgers and an OK one simply boils down to salt and pepper.”
- “Use a very hot pan and don’t overcrowd the burgers. Leave the patties alone for a while once you put them in the pan so they can develop a nice, light crust.”
- “The bun makes the burger. You need a bun that has good structural integrity but isn’t overly firm. You want a soft, fresh bun. I like standard sesame buns or brioche. And take the time to toast the bun, too. It makes all the difference.”
- Remove the ground beef from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.
- Preheat the oven to 375°F.
- Divide the beef into four equal portions.
- Working with one portion at a time, throw the meat firmly against a cutting board, repeating until it becomes slightly tacky. Form each portion into an even, round patty about 5 inches (13 cm) in diameter and no more than ½ inch (13 mm) thick. If the patties are any thicker, the meat will contract during cooking, making them thicker still.
- Place the patties on a sheet pan and let stand at room temperature while you prepare the remaining ingredients.
- In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard and mayonnaise to make the Dijonnaise.
- Arrange the onion, cheese, tomato, lettuce, and pickles on separate plates.
- Season the tomato slices, if using, with coarse sea salt and black pepper.
- Melt 1½ tbsp of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.
- Once the butter stops foaming, add the buns, cut sides down.
- Toast briefly, pressing lightly so the entire cut surface comes into contact with the butter.
- Add more butter as needed.
- Transfer the buns to a sheet pan, arranging the tops on one side and the bottoms on the other.
- Season both sides of the patties from edge to edge with kosher salt and black pepper, gently pressing the seasoning into the meat.
- Spread the Dijonnaise over the cut sides of each bun. Arrange the pickles in a single layer over the bottom buns without leaving any gaps.
- Top with the tomato slices, if using, followed by two or three onion rings.
- Wipe out the pan used to toast the buns and place it over high heat. Add the remaining 2 tbsp butter. Once the butter stops foaming and begins to brown lightly, add the patties, working in batches if necessary to avoid crowding the pan. Press down firmly to eliminate any air pockets beneath the centers and help prevent the patties from contracting. Let the patties cook undisturbed over high heat.
- After about 2½ minutes, press the patties once more and cook for another 30 seconds. Carefully flip them. The cooked sides should be deeply caramelized with a well-developed crust. Do not press the patties again. Top each patty with two slices of cheese and cook for about 2 minutes. Transfer the patties to the sheet pan. Repeat with any remaining patties.
- Once all the patties have been cooked, transfer the sheet pan to the oven and bake for about 1½ minutes, or until the ground beef reaches an internal temperature of 160°F.
- Place the patties on the prepared bottom buns. Top each with a few pieces of iceberg lettuce. Cover with the bun tops, press down gently, and serve immediately.
Note: Throwing the meat against the cutting board agitates its proteins, making it slightly tacky and helping the patties hold together. You don’t want to overmix the meat, but you do want it to adhere. The same principle applies when making meatloaf, burgers, or anything else with ground meat. A literal rule of thumb: You should be able to form a ball of meat, stick your thumb through it, and hold it without the meat falling off your finger.
