Sorry, you need to enable JavaScript to visit this website.
Cooking oils

Why Chefs Are Ditching Seed Oils

10 Minute read

As concerns about sustainability and wellness grow, chefs are reevaluating their use of seed oils—and exploring cleaner, more conscious alternatives.

Modern chefs understand more about food than ever before. And while some ingredients stand the test of time, increasingly, others no longer have a seat at the table.

Why Seed Oils Are Under Fire

Since the late 1990s, seed oils—such as canola, sunflower, peanut, and corn oil—have dominated most commercial kitchens. They largely replaced higher-fat ingredients like margarine and lard, praised for being lower in trans fats and having a higher smoke point. But more recent studies have raised concerns: seed oils are high in omega-6 fatty acids, which have been linked to inflammation and autoimmune conditions.

The growing body of information—and conflicting opinions—around seed oils has led some chefs to rethink their use in the kitchen. In April, Chef Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park in New York City announced that his team would be replacing seed oil with algae oil.

“Algae oil was the first product that really made us consider making a change like this,” Humm told Fine Dining Lovers. “We aren’t following a trend, but creating a new standard.”

How Daniel Humm Made the Switch

Humm first discovered algae oil through Kas Saidi, co-founder of Algae Cooking Club. As Saidi prepared to launch the oil in the U.S., he sought Humm’s input on recipe development and a collection of infused oils.

That’s when Humm realized just how much more sustainable algae oil was compared to seed oils—it became his initial motivation to make the switch. “All other alternatives require significantly more land and water to produce,” he explained. “To put it in perspective, algae oil uses approximately 87% less land than canola oil and 90% less than soybean oil. It also uses 88% less water than palm oil and 90% less than sunflower oil.”

Humm also praised the way algae oil performs in the kitchen. “If it didn’t make our food more delicious, we wouldn’t use it,” he said, noting the oil’s neutral flavor makes it “incredibly versatile, and never interferes with the flavors of a dish.” 

It also has a remarkably high smoke point—over 500°F—higher than any cooking oil Humm has used, allowing him to fry and sear at intense heat without any burnt flavor. “This oil switch is also for the benefit of our guests as well as for the planet,” he added, noting that algae oil is high in omega-9 fats and low in omega-6s—the primary concern with traditional seed oils.

Humm says algae oil is still “relatively under the radar,” which makes the transition all the more exciting. But he’s not alone—other chefs are also experimenting with alternatives to seed oils.

Chef Daniel Humm.

Daniel Humm. Credit: Christopher Villano

Restaurants Leading the Seed Oil-Free Movement

In Denver, Just BE Kitchen became the first restaurant in the country to receive Seed Oil Free Certification by the Seed Oil Free Alliance. The restaurant cooks exclusively with coconut, palm fruit, and olive oil. Outside Dallas, in Hurst, Texas, James Provisions advertises itself as a “seed-oil free restaurant,” opting instead for olive oil, butter, ghee, coconut oil, bacon fat, duck fat, and beef tallow.

In New York City, Coqodaq uses Zero Acre oil, made from non-GMO, non-deforested Brazilian sugarcane. Partner Simon Kim explained that their concept of “better fried chicken” is built on a trifecta: responsibly sourced protein from small Amish farms, gluten-free batter, and—what he calls the “most critical part”—the oil used to fry it. “We looked into seed oils and the debates around them, but we didn’t want to avoid something out of fear—rather, we wanted to find a superior alternative,” Kim said. “It’s neutral in flavor, less greasy, longer lasting, and better for the planet.”

While overhauling such a staple ingredient as cooking oil may seem daunting, as it impacts the majority of dishes on a menu, Humm pointed out that the shift is not all that limiting. Especially when compared to the change he led in 2021 when Eleven Madison Park converted to a plant-based tasting menu. “The idea of a completely plant-based fine dining menu challenged a lot of traditional perspectives on luxury, and it changed so many things about the way we cook,” he said, noting it was definitely more disruptive and met with more friction in public conversations.

“For many restaurants, making a big change to the menu isn’t possible or seems too daunting,” he continued. “So in this way, showing the impact of changing a single ingredient, like cooking oil, might be just as powerful — demonstrating the importance of small, more achievable steps.”

Join the community
Badge
Join us for unlimited access to the very best of Fine Dining Lovers
Unlock all our articles
Badge
Continue reading and access all our exclusive stories by registering now.

Already a member? LOG IN

Don’t miss out! Register now to get unlimited access to FDL’s curated stories.