How ROW DTLA Became L.A.’s Quiet Culinary Powerhouse

Los Angeles is a sprawl of distinct dining enclaves, each with its own flavor and reason to travel. From Venice’s farmers’ market–driven fare to K-town’s world-class Korean cuisine, L.A.’s neighborhoods each tell their own delicious story.

But in the middle of it all, there’s one culinary island (if you will), surrounded by a sea of otherwise empty warehouses, that might just be one of the city’s most underrated dining districts: ROW DTLA.

Originally brought to life as the LA Terminal Market in 1923, the site served as a major distribution hub for regional produce. Today, the 30-acre compound on the edge of the Arts District has been reimagined as a walkable maze of industrial buildings—transformed into a self-contained urban ecosystem that now houses some of Los Angeles’ most celebrated restaurants.

From Kaiseki to KATO: Fine Dining Redefines ROW DTLA

Among the standout restaurants is Hayato, the intimate, two-Michelin-starred kaiseki spot from chef Brandon Go. With just seven seats and a meticulous focus on seasonality and tradition, Hayato is one of L.A.’s most exclusive—and exacting—dining experiences. Its presence at ROW DTLA quietly raised the bar for the entire neighborhood and played a subtle but significant role in attracting fellow talent like Jon Yao, who considers Go a mentor.

When KATO moved from a Westside strip mall to ROW DTLA during the pandemic, it was a clear upgrade. The team finally had room to age proteins, store preserves and fermentations, and expand their larder program. With that came more buying power at the farmers’ market, the ability to train a larger staff, and the freedom to evolve their cooking techniques.

One of the most acclaimed restaurants in ROW DTLA is KATO, the tasting menu–only fine-dining destination from chef Jon Yao, who recently won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: California. The move from a Westside strip mall to ROW during the pandemic marked a defining moment for the team. “Parking and security were the biggest issues for our staff previously, so right off the bat I felt good in those regards,” Yao says of the transition. “I also live in the neighborhood and wanted a location that was within reach of my family and other regulars in the SGV but also feel like we were in the midst of LA. We were also approached with a great deal mid-pandemic, and being in close proximity to Brandon Go was also a strong selling point.”

KATO’s co-owner, award-winning beverage director Ryan Bailey, sees ROW DTLA as a destination—but one surrounded by growth. “I think there is a great opportunity for the city to help guide this neighborhood in the right direction with intentional and community driven development. We are excited to be a small part of that narrative and to add to the important history of this incredible neighborhood.”

Like any restaurant as special as KATO, a little unexpected magic helped shape its new home. “This complex holds a part of my heart,” Bailey says, “because it’s where Jon and I first discussed—over coffee at what was then Tartine—partnering on KATO. It’s kind of comical to think that after a city-wide, three-year search, we ended up just 100 yards from where we first dreamt up the next stage of KATO.”

Chris Bianco’s Slice of Vision: Craft, Care, and Culinary Revival

On the more casual end of the spectrum, ROW DTLA is also home to culinary legend Chris Bianco, widely considered one of the best pizza makers in the country. After building his bona fides in Arizona, Bianco chose ROW for his first venture beyond the desert.

“When the opportunity arose to open my first pizzeria outside of Arizona, the goal was simple: to do what we've always done—cook from our back door out, supporting our local farmers and artisans to the best of our ability,” says Bianco. “Our aim has always been to build long-lasting relationships that echo throughout our community and beyond.”

For Bianco, the transformation from the LA Terminal Market to ROW DTLA has created a gastronomic island like no other. “It’s a shining example of adaptive reuse at its finest—where you can park safely, stroll around, and immerse yourself in one of the most unique and special urban experiences available anywhere,” he says. “The culinary community at ROW is diverse, well-curated, and backed by operators who share a common vision and commitment to quality.”

The hospitality veteran’s casual favorites within the ROW DTLA community include Go Get ‘Em Tiger coffee, fresh oysters at Rappahannock, and crisp Japanese fried chicken at Pikuniku. Still, he admits that lingering stigmas—mostly about the location—may be keeping some Angelenos from discovering what the area truly offers.

“The cons are straightforward: perception,” Bianco explains. “If someone hasn’t had the opportunity to visit ROW DTLA, their first reaction might be: ‘You lost me at downtown.’ Many American city centers—once neglected or forgotten—still carry that stigma. And while progress has been made, there’s still work to do to shift public perception—and, in some cases, the actual reality.”

Smorgasburg Sundays: Incubating L.A.’s Next Great Chefs

On Sundays, the complex transforms into a vibrant stage for Smorgasburg, the outdoor food market that has launched countless pop-ups into brick-and-mortar stardom—from Broad Street Oyster Company to Moo’s Craft Barbecue. With vendors from across Los Angeles, it’s become a proving ground for the city’s next great culinary names.

Led by general manager and local food writer Zach Brooks, Smorgasburg’s nearly nine-year run at ROW DTLA has launched some of the city’s most beloved food names—thanks to Brooks’s sharp curation and knack for spotting talent poised for a bigger stage. It’s become a vital artery in L.A.’s dining scene, feeding the city’s appetite for discovery.

“I’m extremely proud of how many great concepts have gotten their start at Smorgasburg over the years,” says Brooks. “Mid East Tacos (the offshoot of Mini Kebab), Tacos 1986, Bridgetown Roti, Evil Cooks, Little Fish, Holy Basil, and Love Hour all launched here. And folks like Bub and Grandma’s, Nicole Rucker, and Maury’s Bagels were part of Smorgasburg early on—long before they became household names in L.A.”

What first drew Brooks to this corner of downtown—aside from the two hours of free parking—was its remarkable history. “The space where we set up is a 100-year-old produce market that still operates Monday through Saturday,” he says. “You can feel the history in all the buildings, some of which date back decades and once served as cornerstones of local manufacturing.”

Still, Brooks acknowledges the challenges of the location. “The biggest downside of the location is more to do with Downtown, which has struggled to keep pace with the expectations that many developers and civic leaders had for it over the past 10–15 years,” he explains. “The pandemic was a huge setback for the entire city, but maybe nowhere more than DTLA. The good news for us is that Smorgasburg has always been a destination, able to attract lots of people to areas they may not have otherwise gone, rather than an amenity that relies on the neighborhood to supply the people.”

With Weiser Family Farms—one of California’s most respected organic growers—set to join ROW DTLA in a new market setting, there’s never been a better reason to visit this quietly essential dining destination and see it for yourself.