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When asked to list some of my favourite bakeries in the world, I could easily rave about 100 to 120 bakeries. Well, okay, maybe not that many. Regardless, here are some of my favourite bakeries.
Before we get into the list, however, I want to say they all share one essential quality: there is a passionate leader running all of these places who is dedicated and perhaps even obsessed with making the best baked goods possible. Here is to that person.
Los Angeles
Republique
I once had a bakery at this very spot, so the address – 624 S. La Brea – is dear to my heart. But I am proud to say that Marge Manzke – and her husband Walter – have carried on in a tradition that makes me proud. I so admired this place that I wrote the forward for Marge’s baking book. Where do I start? A ham and cheese croissant? A kouign-amann? Probably both. But for sure an oatmeal raisin cookie, which is the best I’ve ever had.
Friends & Family
My latest and soon-to-be-released cookbook was originally titled ‘The Peanut Butter Cookie That Changed My Life, (and 100 other recipes).’ That cookie was from Friends & Family, the bakery/café from pastry Chef Roxana Jullapat and Chef Daniel Mattern.
Sycamore Kitchen
Quinn & Karen Hatfield’s superb bakery. I try to stay away, but that damn crazy salted caramel babka roll keeps calling my name. (And it would be rude not to respond, wouldn’t it?). A pure delight.
San Diego
Wayfarer Bread & Pastry
Photo: Crystal White
Crystal White has made La Jolla a bakery destination. A kouign-amann, a strawberry pistachio croissant and a salted chocolate chip cookie and I’m set for the ride back to Los Angeles. Even the famed traffic can’t get to me when I’m relishing in Crystal’s treats in the car. (Thankfully, I have a good portable vacuum cleaner for when I get home.)
San Francisco
b. Patisserie
Belinda Leong’s brilliant career has taken her from Gary Danko in San Francisco to prized bakeries in Paris, Barcelona and Copenhagen, then to the renowned Manresa in Los Gatos and thankfully, to her own bakery, b. Patisserie back at San Fran. Get a kouign-amann. No, on second thoughts, don’t get a kouign-amann. Get three.
Napa Valley
Bouchon Bakery
Photo: Deborah Jones
This is the bakery of a young chef named Thomas Keller, who I think has a future in this industry. I think this bakery is so good, that Thomas should open a restaurant as well. Seemingly simple fare, such as a blueberry muffin or chocolate éclair, shine here.
Portland
Bakeshop
Going to visit my son when he was attending Reed College used to be my main reason to go to Portland, Oregon. Now that he’s graduated (barely), my main reason to go is Kim Boyce’s bakery Bakeshop. (Oh, by the way, I wrote the introduction for Kim’s book, too). And that buckwheat scone with Fig butter. Is that still legal?
New York City
Sullivan Street Bakery
Photo: Squire Fox
Two words; Jim Lahey. Okay, so I’m gonna add four more words. Sesame loaf, pizza bianca.
Mexico City
Panaderia Rosetta
Photo: Claudio Castro
This bakery of Elena Reygadas’ is my favourite in Mexico City. Whenever I am in Mexico City, I start every morning here at Panaderia Rosetta in this charming neighbourhood [Roma Norte] with a coffee and a guava and cheese Danish or the cacao cardamon lemon crème doughnut.
Bogota
Masa 81
Whenever I told anyone I was going to Colombia, they would almost all say when I go to Bogota, go to Masa 81 bakery and get the almond croissant. By the way, if you are going to Bogota, go to Masa 81 and get the almond croissant.
London
The Dusty Knuckle
Photo: courtesy of The Dusty Knuckle
This is sort of the ‘Homeboy Bakery’ of London. Not only superb food, but mentor to at-risk youth. When I go, I get the orange and poppy seed swirl. I get a feta and honey swirl. Heck, I’m about to start swirling just thinking about them.
ROME
Roscioli Pasticceria
Photo: Andrea Di Lorenzo
Before I go to my favourite restaurant in Rome, Roscioli Salumeria, I go to my favourite bakery in Rome, Roscioli Pasticceria for a little snack. After I go to my favourite restaurant in Rome, Roscioli Salumeria, I walk all of 20 metres to my favourite bakery in Rome, Roscioli Pasticceria to take a treat back to my hotel.
UMBRIA
Frantoio Centumbrie
Photo: courtesy of Frantoio Centumbrie
I have a home in Umbria, in the little town of Panicale, which is about a 20-minute drive from this bakery. If it was an hour and 20 minutes, I would still be coming to this gem. But that it is so close has been a sheer delight. The bread, the morning raisin rolls, and the focaccia are all superb.
PARIS
Poilane
Photo: Jean-François Aimé
When I see a list of the world’s great bakeries, of the world’s great breads, and Poilane is not listed, I question the entire validity of the list. Opened in 1932, this is hallowed ground. In 2002, when Lionel Poilane and his wife Irena died in a helicopter crash off the coast of Brittany, it was like royalty had perished. Thank the bread gods that their daughter Apollonia carried on this magnificent tradition. To walk into Poilane bakery in the early morning and inhale the waft of baking is one of life’s joys. The most famous bread is the miche or pain Poilane, a two-kilogram sourdough country loaf. That and a slather of butter from Rodolphe Le Meunier of the Lorie and I hear the opening lines of ‘Cheek to Cheek’. (Just in case you don’t know it, the first four words are “Heaven, I’m in heaven.”)
Nancy Silverton will be a Grand Juror at S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition 2022-23. Her new cookbook, ‘The Cookie That Changed My Life…’ is released in November.
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