Restaurant Focus: Hjem

Restaurant Focus is your way to discover new and upcoming restaurants to know about. This time we’re visiting Hjem, a Michelin-starred gem in lush Northumbria, Northeast England.

What is Hjem?

Hjem is a Michelin-starred restaurant in the village of Wall in Hexham, Northumbria in England’s Northeast, from Swedish chef Alex Nietosvuori (Daniel Berlin Krog, Maaemo) and his partner, Ally Thompson, who looks after front of house.

The pair met in Copenhagen, and eventually found themselves setting up in Thompson’s native Northumbria in a pub-hotel called Hadrian’s (more on that name later) in 2019. Initially, the idea was to do pub food with plans to open a restaurant later, but Nietosvuori’s creative tendencies soon took over and in 2021 Hjem (pronounced ‘yem’ and conveniently, both a Scandinavian and Northumbrian word for ‘home’) was awarded a Michelin star.

Tell me about the food

Nietosvuori, Thompson and the team work closely with local producers, sourcing much of their meat, dairy and vegetables nearby. There is a distinct Nordic touch to the one, ever-changing 15-18 course tasting menu, which consists of small bites and larger plates – flavours are subtle and precise, and there’s an understated luxury throughout in dishes such as North Sea squid with cauliflower and nettle, and local pork with morels.

What’s the dining room like?

Expect Scandinavian vibes in the 24-seat restaurant in front of an astonishingly quiet and zen-like open kitchen, with warm woods and a homely feel. Ceramics and artwork are made locally, while service is relaxed, welcoming and on point.

How do I get there?

Hjem is around 25 minutes by car from Newcastle.

Should I stay over?

Yes, Hjem has 11 ensuite bedrooms in the main hotel and three external lodges, all of which are comfortable and modern. It’s also worth staying over for the extensive breakfast, with an array of local meats and cheeses, pâtés and home-baked treats on offer.

_{Lightly cured North Sea trout, smoked crème fraîche, smoked trout roe, preserved tomato and dill}

Anything else to know?

Yes, the restaurant is located in the village of Wall, so-called because of its proximity to Hadrian’s Wall, the near 2000-year-old Roman fortification, which stretches for 73 miles, coast to coast. The Scottish border is also less than an hour away by car.