Growing up in San Antonio, Texas, Centeno enjoyed family traditions rooted in his grandmother's Tex-Mex cuisine, which would inspire his culinary journey. After honing his skills at the Culinary Institute of America in San Antonio, he embarked on a career that took him to some of the most prestigious kitchens in the country, including Manresa in Los Gatos and Daniel in New York City. These formative experiences shaped his dynamic culinary style, which is characterized by a fearless combination of global flavors and techniques.
In 2011, Centeno made waves in Downtown LA by opening Bäco Mercat, a restaurant built around his signature creation, the bäco flatbread sandwich. This marked the beginning of what would become a culinary empire, with Centeno launching a string of successful restaurants, each with its own unique concept. Bar Amá pays homage to Tex-Mex flavors, while Orsa & Winston showcases refined Italian-Japanese fusion and has earned a Michelin star. Centeno’s ability to reinvent traditional cuisines with a contemporary twist has earned him widespread acclaim, including multiple James Beard Award nominations. Beyond his restaurants, Centeno has authored cookbooks that reflect his bold, creative approach, bringing modern American dining to homes around the country.
Restaurants
Bar Amá, Centeno’s tribute to Tex-Mex cuisine, is a cornerstone of his culinary empire in Downtown LA. Opened in 2011, the restaurant is inspired by his San Antonio roots and the comforting flavors of his grandmother’s kitchen. The space combines rustic charm with industrial chic, featuring exposed brick walls, vibrant tilework, and a welcoming atmosphere that encourages communal dining. With its vibrancy and heartfelt approach to Tex-Mex cooking, Bar Amá has become a favorite destination for those seeking bold, nostalgic flavors reimagined for today’s palate.
Beyond Bar Amá, Centeno’s influence extends to other notable establishments in LA. Whereas the now-closed Bäco Mercat grabbed the attention of the city’s dining scene with its creative flatbread dishes and eclectic, globally inspired menu, his Michelin-starred Orsa & Winston showcases an elegant fusion of Italian and Japanese cuisines, offering a refined counterpoint to the casual energy of Bar Amá. The restaurant’s omakase-style dining allows guests to fully immerse themselves in Centeno’s creative process. Each of these restaurants reflects a different facet of Centeno’s culinary vision, but all share the commitment to quality and innovation that has earned him the informal title of "culinary mayor" of Downtown LA.
Recipes and dishes
Centeno’s culinary style is an exploration of bold flavors and diverse influences, seamlessly blending traditions from around the globe. His recipes emphasize fresh, seasonal ingredients, layering flavors in unexpected ways. Centeno’s roots in Tex-Mex cuisine shine at Bar Amá, where dishes like chile con queso and his grandmother’s puffy tacos pay homage to his heritage. Even at his now-closed Bäco Mercat, Centeno’s creativity was evident in dishes centered around his signature bäco flatbread, a hybrid of pita and taco, paired with bold fillings like lamb, beef, and Mediterranean vegetables. At Orsa & Winston, his signature Italian-Japanese menu features dishes like uni risotto, an elegant fusion of creamy rice with briny sea urchin, and pork shoulder glazed with soy and citrus. Each dish reflects Centeno’s meticulous attention to detail and ability to transform familiar ingredients into something extraordinary.
Working with his life partner, former LA Times food editor Betty Hallock, Centeno has also published cookbooks such as, Bäco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles, and Amá: a Modern Tex-Mex Kitchen, offering readers a glimpse into his vibrant approach to cooking. Through both his restaurants and his writing, Centeno continues to inspire diners with his boundary-pushing cuisine.
