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Tucci Brunch

Stanley Tucci at brunch. Credit: Kelsey Cherry Photography

A Morning with Stanley Tucci: Espresso, Baccalà, and Entertaining Advice

8 Minute read

At a spring brunch hosted by S.Pellegrino, Tucci served up sharp wit, hosting wisdom, and nostalgia for his grandmother’s kitchen.

On an unusually blustery early Sunday morning, social media influencers, chefs, and a handful of food editors and reporters descended upon King in Lower Manhattan. The chairs had been pushed aside. Branches laden with cherry blossoms competed with bursts of tulip bouquets for our attention—to feast our eyes upon.

A singer, accompanied by a pianist and clarinet player, belted out throwback jazz hits as bartenders flung Negronis and spritzes onto the diminutive bar as quickly as the cocktails could be shaken. Appetizers snaked out from the kitchen: bruschetta decorated with slivers of salty anchovies and Italian chilis; tortellini stuffed with fresh ricotta and dotted with English peas, mint leaves, and lemon zest; an enormous spring pea and ricotta frittata that, for a few moments, stopped all conversation as it was presented; and pinches of baccalà carefully pressed onto squares of seared polenta.

The latter—the baccalà polenta—was made in honor of one special guest: Stanley Tucci, host of Tucci in Italy, the star of too many of my favorite movies (have you seen Conclave? If not, you should), and the author of the memoirs tucked into our painfully stylish navy knit Clare V. totes, embroidered with the word “Ciao” and echoing S.Pellegrino’s most recently released sparkling beverage. Baccalà was his favorite, the kitchen had discerned. “I’ve only made it once,” he confessed. “Yours is probably better than mine.”

Tucci, in many ways, is S.Pellegrino’s most quintessential brand ambassador and most effortless host. Fresh off hosting Easter dinner for his family (he had served a roasted spring lamb), he charmed the small crowd (notable attendees included Kerry Diamond of Cherry Bombe; Gary He, the author behind McAtlas; Ewa and Jeromy, the duo behind YouTube channel Nom Life; and chefs Esther Choi and Nick Curtola). He dispensed sound advice for hosting and regaled everyone with tales of his favorite chef’s knife—“I love it, it’s carbon steel, I use it for everything. It’s the equivalent of a samurai sword. I go on vacation with it, when I’m going to cook.”—and how his go-to coffee order is a double espresso, three times a day: “I don’t eat a huge amount of dairy. I have one double in the morning and a single in the afternoon, and then I’m addicted to Nespresso Ristretto. It’s the closest you can get to having coffee in Italy.”

Tell people to go away.
“I have difficulty not conversing with people when I’m cooking. They want to talk to you, especially if you haven’t seen them for a while. And right in the middle of making a risotto, they’ll be like, how have you been? I have finally now learnt to say to people, go away, I’ll talk to you at the table. Because if I talk to you now, we won’t eat. And when we do eat, it’ll be terrible. A lot of Italian food happens fast. You do your prep, and once you cook those ingredients, it needs to be eaten immediately. Otherwise, it just falls flat. Unless you’re doing a roast, which you can time and have sit out. I hate when people talk to me. As a host, set that precedent. Don’t talk to anyone.”

Don’t run out of wine (but don’t spend too much money).
“Just have a lot. Don’t run out. I don’t buy really fancy wine. I try to find stuff that is drinkable and good, but I don’t believe in spending copious amounts of money on wine. That sounds like I’m being cheap. But what are you serving? It should match the food. Sometimes you want to serve a Meursault, but you also want to serve the Meursault to someone who knows what they’re drinking. Not my in-laws.”

Make a timpano (but make it good).
“It’s something my family makes—essentially pasta inside of a crust. It’s very heavy but very delicate. I made one for my aunt and uncle once and I f-ed it up. That was really embarrassing. They’re dead now. I think about that every night.”

Don’t be intimidated by the tête de veau (if you’re the diner).
“What is that?” someone in the audience asked.
“I have no idea,” said Tucci. “But I was at a restaurant and I think it was like a lamb’s head. I was afraid of it, so I ordered it. It was amazing. Incredibly rich. So I felt ill afterward, but I kind of loved it.”

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