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At Class Act, Chef Nicolai Mlodinow Is Throwing a Fine Dining Dinner Party

10 Minute read
Nicolai Mlodinow

Chef Nicolai Mlodinow

The Menus Tell Stories

Class Act’s themed tasting menu changes every few months. The debut, Growing Up, reimagined flavors from Mlodinow’s Pasadena childhood. A tarragon tortilla held three cheeses for a quesadilla served with horchata crema and caviar; a riff on Peking duck featured tea-smoked slices and orange-flavored daikon. The follow-up, Evolution, traced the history of food from prehistoric hunter-gatherers through fire and farming to modern times.

A later menu, Banquet, celebrated the rituals of connection that mark life’s milestones. Courses included wagyu shawarma with horseradish-saffron béchamel; king crab with dill-sage oil and crab beurre blanc; and Tenth Jewel, a tikka masala squab course with lemon balm citrus crema and paneer cream. An artisan cheese course came with beet challah. It was playful, refined, and unapologetically global.

One followed in May 2026, with each course spotlighting a single ingredient prepared in several ways. For Mlodinow, the idea extended beyond the plate to the individual guests forming a community around the table.

“You appreciate all the aspects of the ingredient: The beauty of its individual parts and how things all come together,” Mlodinow said. “And you look at everyone who comes and they’re all at one table. They’re making one community and appreciating how it all comes together in a thoughtful, positive way and makes everything stronger and not weaker.”

In September, Class Act launched its fifth menu, Act V. Its courses draw inspiration from places including Milan, Greece, and Brazil.

Beyond the Accolades

For someone who didn’t go to culinary school, recognition came quickly for Mlodinow and Class Act. Forbes named him to its 2026 30 Under 30 Food & Drink list in December 2025, and the James Beard Foundation named him a 2026 Emerging Chef semifinalist the following January. Class Act beverage director Jonas Bittencourt was nominated for Sommelier of the Year at the 2026 Jean Banchet Awards; he left the restaurant in April.

The acclaim came with criticism, too. Reviewing Class Act’s Evolution menu for Chicago magazine in January 2026, John Kessler enjoyed the communal atmosphere and praised the wine program but sharply criticized the food, citing untempered spices, gummy dumplings, and dense focaccia.

“A criticism or praise, that’s one person’s point of view,” he said. “Any feedback, whether positive or negative, is being said for a reason. I take my ego out of it. You distill it and then ask what you do or don’t agree with and act on it.”

Mlodinow returns to balance. He wants to tell stories without getting between guests and their dinner, and to cook with refinement without losing the fun.

“We want people to leave with lasting relationships: with us, with the people they meet, with the culture they learn about,” he said. “Whatever accolades come, they’re a byproduct. Our job is to give the guest the best night.”

One night, a guest exchanged phone numbers with a stranger at the table. The two started making plans to meet again. Mlodinow noticed.

“That’s the most beautiful thing to me,” he says. “We did our job that night.”

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