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A relaxed three-hour drive from Croatia's capital Zagreb, through rainy natural parks and out to the glistening Adriatic coastline, takes you to the peninsula of Istria and the historic and picturesque town of Rovinj and its sub-Mediterranean surroundings. While world-class hotels nestle into the hillside, pristine waters lap at pine-fringed beaches, and shiny yachts line the harbour, one of this land's greatest riches is its wealth of local produce from family-run producers.
Third, second and even first-generation farmers and producers are nurturing their land and produce, where extra virgin olive oil, cheese and truffles are enough to rival neighbouring Italy's finest, and the hearts of the region's best chefs, like Jeffrey Vella, beat a little faster for the finest local ingredients.
Image courtesy of Cap Aureo
With Croatia also entering the EU's Schengen zone in 2023 and Istria's proximity to Slovenia and Italy, it's never been easier to take a road trip to this sub-Mediterranean peninsula that offers a warm welcome to food lovers. Here's a guide to some of the best family-run local producers in Istria, Croatia and where to find them.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Chiavalon Olive Oil
Images courtesy of Chiavalon
Located just outside the small medieval town of Vodnjan, 20-25 km south of Rovinj, is Chiavalon, an award-winning organic olive oil producer run by enthusiast brothers Sandi and Teddi Chiavalon.
What started as a 100-tree memorial to their late father and grandfather in 1997 has since blossomed into a full-time family business, with 9,300 trees over 35 hectares, a state-of-the-art mill, and a portfolio of half a dozen extra virgin olive oils found on Istria's best tables and exported to more than 23 countries, including to London's Fortnum and Mason.
Image courtesy of Chiavalon
Using a minimum tillage system and few tractors, they are one of four mills in the world to have the Georgio Mori technology that guarantees quick and stable processing at a temperature between 19 and 21°C during all phases of production. The waste is then turned into millet pellets for heating and a full traceability system, while all the oil is traceable back to the fields in which it was produced.
From gold award-winning Ex Albis, with fresh citrus and apple notes, to spicy Atilio, the intensity and quality of the oils is a testament to the dedication of the family. Go for a tour and a tasting, and check out the shop for other homegrown produce.
Istrian White Truffle – Prodan Tartufi
Images courtesy of Prodan Tartufi
Any visit to Istria, known as Croatia’s truffle capital, should include a white truffle stop between early October and the end of December. It's still considered one of the best truffle regions in the world, where the biggest ever discovered was 1.3kg, found in 1999.
Prodan Tartufi is a third-generation family-run truffle hunting business, operating since truffles first garnered interest in the region in the 1960s. Buzet, the city of truffles, can be seen from the family farm in the distance, where an annual 2.5-metre giant frittata with truffles (over 2000 eggs and 10kg of truffles) is prepared to celebrate the season.
While each family member has their expertise within the dynamic company, it's their energetic team of highly trained, small truffle hunting dogs that seek out the Istrian white truffle (tuber magnatum pico) depending on which of the siblings, Visnja or Mirko, has their ear. Go for the truffle hunt and stay for Visnja's scrambled egg with a generous shaving of truffles.
Istrian cheese – Mljekara Latus
Images courtesy of Mljekara Latus
Sandi and Maja Orbanić took a gamble getting into cheese at Latus, a small family-run dairy in Gornji Orbanići that started in 2001. But nearly 20 years later, they've never looked back, with award-winning cheeses like Veli Jože, a hard cow's cheese aged for about 300 days, a sell-out success and one which keeps chefs like Vella coming back for more. Sandi's son is also now studying agriculture and as he jokes, makes better mozzarella than him already.
The family produce their milk and still keeps about 20 cows and cooperates with another 12 subcontractors. They produce a wide range of dairy products including fresh milk, yoghurt, cream, and hard and semi-hard cheeses. They can be found at Bra's bi-annual Cheese Festival, proudly showing their produce amongst the world's best. Call ahead for a tasting at their Milk & Cheese bar.
Oysters and Seafood – Lim Fjord
The sea is an excellent draw in the area, with Lim fjord located halfway between Vrsar and Rovinj. This stunning canyon-like estuary is rich in fish and shellfish.
Enjoy the local oysters with a freshly chilled bottle of wine and nothing more, at a small shack above the water, owned by company Istrida, where the likes of Danish chef Rasmus Munk have shucked.
For a relaxing sit-down fish lunch, head to the ever-popular Restaurant Viking Lim Fjord, one of two restaurants in Lim Fjord, Istria, set back from the water with a huge outdoor terrace and a loyal following. Seafood dishes are both fresh and very generous and perfect with a cold bottle of locally produced Malvasia.
Fine Dining
Image courtesy of Cap Aureo
Located on the fifth floor of Maistra's Grand Park Hotel is the signature Cap Aureo restaurant, where chef Vella heads up a young team of dedicated chefs in his open-plan kitchen, overlooking a dining room with sublime harbour views.
Images courtesy of Cap Aureo
Vella believes in championing local producers and lets the produce shine in his extensive tasting menu. A vegetable and seafood-centric menu skips through punchy flavours, textures and fun twists, all explained by a friendly and knowledgeable team. An extensive and exciting local wine pairing is designed by the affable expert sommelier Andreas Zilli. Don't miss the final selection of Istrian cheeses.
For more ideas on where to eat, discover our Rovinj tasting map, where Vella shares his personal favourites.
Where to stay
Image courtesy of Grand Park Hotel
The newly opened Grand Park Hotel, designed by Piero Lissoni & Partners in collaboration with the 3LHD Architecture Studio of Zagreb, is a five-star hotel located directly on Rovinj's east shore. Each of the six floors comes complete with panoramic views of the old town, marina and seafront, offset by an impressive minimal-style hall with the largest bay window in Europe. Relaxed and sophisticated bedrooms offer a sense of the sea, with eye-level gardens framed by historic pine trees.
If you're after a more intimate setting, head around the harbour into town for boutique Hotel Adriatic, which offers a more unique charm, as well as the Brasserie Adriatic, for an informal seafood dinner.
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