Yess

In the Arts District, the raw, industrial character of a former 1920s bank provides an unlikely setting for the focused, simple cooking at Yess. The cavernous room, with its exposed rafters and high glass-block windows, is softened by a long cypress counter wrapping around the open kitchen. This is the focal point of the space, where cooking happens over a wood-fired stove and charcoal grill, establishing the restaurant’s elemental philosophy.\nThe food is described as progressive Japanese, a term that hints at the kitchen’s reverence for tradition coupled with a firm grounding in its Southern California location. Rather than importing ingredients, the team forged relationships with local fishermen and producers to source everything from the surrounding land and sea. The result is a selection of offerings that feels both timeless and distinctly of the moment. Daily-changing sashimi and charcoal-grilled fish showcase the quality of local catches like vermillion rockfish and halibut, prepared using Japanese techniques.\nBeyond the exceptional seafood, a significant portion of the items are plant-based, a practice informed by the principles of shojin ryori, or Japanese Buddhist temple cuisine. This influence is beautifully expressed in preparations like the monk’s chirashi, a rice bowl that forgoes fish in favor of a composition of seasonal vegetables, smoked walnuts, and other plant-based ingredients. Whether it is an à la carte choice of small plates or a more formal tasting menu, the creations arrive with a quiet confidence, products of intense preparation that appear effortless on the plate.