Don't let the name fool you; Little's Oyster Bar in Houston is a restaurant of surprising breadth and ambition. It operates on a scale that belies its name, dedicating itself to the nuances of seafood with a particular focus on thoughtfully sourced Gulf coast fish. The kitchen’s reach is extensive, with some snapper, grouper, and tilefish sourced directly from its own boats, ensuring a direct line from the water to the plate. This control over the supply chain speaks to a commitment to the ingredients that anchor the entire culinary program. The raw bar serves as a focal point, with a rotating selection of oysters and wild Texas Gulf shrimp. Beyond the raw offerings, the kitchen has become known for a number of standout preparations. A Creole bisque, rich with crawfish or scallops and laced with cognac, has been a recurring feature. Other dishes that have helped define the restaurant include charcoal-grilled octopus and a distinctive chicken-fried American red snapper. The carte also makes room for more intricate compositions, such as baked Gulf oysters enhanced with blue crab and a touch of absinthe, or lobster paired with gnocchi. While seafood is the clear emphasis, the restaurant's identity is also shaped by a serious caviar service. It features hand-selected white sturgeon, presented with accompaniments like puffed potato dumplings and radish butter, creating a unique offering within the city’s dining landscape. The beverage program is built to complement the food, with a wine list leaning towards European selections and bright cocktails designed for the Houston climate. Housed in a location that preserves the vintage sign of its predecessor, Little's Oyster Bar connects the city's dining past with a contemporary vision for what a seafood restaurant can be.