For a playful and unconventional interpretation of a Japanese izakaya, look no further than Kawa Ni, housed in a converted Denver firehouse. The setting itself, a historic brick building with arched glass doorways, hints at a concept that respects tradition without being bound by it. Inside, the atmosphere is lively and relaxed, designed as a modern pub where guests can settle in for drinks and shareable plates. This philosophy is rooted in the Japanese meaning of izakaya as a stay-drink-place, a comfortable spot for a casual and social meal. The food is a freewheeling take on Japanese pub fare, prioritizing bold, umami-rich flavors over a strict adherence to convention. While the selections feature raw fish like hamachi and scallop crudo, the kitchen is not primarily focused on sushi. Instead, it has become known for a wide-ranging array of shareable dishes, from dumplings and crab rangoons to inventive noodle and rice bowls. The Szechuan pork dumplings, served in ponzu and garlic hot oil, are frequently cited as a standout, alongside creative vegetable preparations like a shaved broccoli dish with miso goma. The catalog extends to more substantial offerings that showcase the kitchen's creative style. Diners might find a kimchi udon with pork belly and pecorino, a dish that pulls from multiple culinary traditions, or a hearty bowl of pork and garlic ramen. This inventive spirit is also evident in smaller plates, such as tofu pockets filled with kani rice or a crispy kung pao chicken karaage. The focus remains on approachable, shareable food that encourages a dynamic dining session, complemented by a wide selection of sake, Japanese whiskey, and craft cocktails.
